As we awaken off the coast of Espanola, it is as if we have stepped back in time to an era when new species arrived to a barren rock in the middle of nowhere. Crystalline blue waters surround us with frigate birds floating high overhead, and in the distance apparent boulders are strewn along a fine white sand beach, until they move and take the shape of sea lions. As the sun rises kayakers explore along the coast and are treated to pacific green sea turtles, golden rays, and a closer look at the volcanic terrain with large Opuntia prickly pear “trees” apparently growing out of solid rock. As the sun illuminates the depths around us we head out to explore the underwater realm and find an abundance of life including sea lions, large schools of surgeon fish, grunts, diamond rays, and a wall teaming with invertebrates. Upon our arrival to the blinding white beach of Espanola, mockingbirds flit back and forth among us with some walking right up to us and giving curious looks hoping to find us of some use in their daily lives. After a wonderful morning our chef is happy for our return, as his crew has prepared an incredible feast of traditional Ecuadorian cuisine.
Captain Pablo makes a short navigation to Suarez Point into the afternoon. It appears as if stones have rained from the sky and vegetation has just recently taken hold on this arid island. We are instantly surprised by the profusion of life as we land. Marine iguanas are returning from their foraging in the shallows with a young sea lion pup curious about them, enough to grab a tail in her mouth and have a pull. As we move along the cliffs heading to our southernmost site in Galapagos we are surrounded at times by Nazca boobies and swallow-tailed gulls coming and going from their resting areas. A Galapagos hawk scans the area from an elevated perch on one of the basalt lava outcroppings. At the highest cliff we have a seat and watch the “air traffic” as red-billed tropicbirds let out high pitched screeches as they search for nesting areas along the cliff. Upon our return to our landing spot Sally lightfoot crabs scurry along the rocks at times holding on tight as the surf pounds down on them. The sun dips once again towards the horizon and as we return to our floating home we are content to be accepted as part of this incredible world.
