Cape Horn & Beagle Channel

S55.58,W067.17, bearing 28,3o: the coordinates of Cape Horn. This is the very last day of a long expedition over the Southern Ocean and into parts of the White Continent.

Cape Horn is situated in the screaming 50s, but along this voyage we have also spent time in hauling 60s – waters known to be rough and frequently buffeted by severe storms.

If you were to characterize our long voyage with a few words, you might say that since our first day in Ushuaia on December 15, 2002, we have experienced the most incredible weather. As we sailed through the Drake Passage yesterday we had the most amazingly calm seas. The first time Captain James Cook’s Endeavour made it below Cape Horn, the master made a note “one of the easiest passages around Cape Horn ever noted by mariners.” This time our Endeavour was blessed with the same luck and we can only agree with James Cook.

Cape Horn was the first “green” land we saw since we left South Georgia. This infamous cliff is well known by almost everyone. The first one to sail in these waters was Sir Francis Drake but the cliff was named by a Dutchman, Willem Schouten who actually rounded Cape Horn 1616, while searching for routes to the Orient. He named it “Hoorn” after his birth village in Holland.

The heyday of the sail ships around the Horn was during the 19th century. The guano trade from northern Chile and Peru mostly to Europe improved agriculture for the ever-increasing population. It was a strong force to build bigger and better sail ships. The famous German Laeize Line, better known as the Flying P Line, was a prime example of how to sail through these waters.

As the Panama Channel was opened and steam ships made a faster run after 1920 most of the sail ships lost importance. Nowadays shipping around Cape Horn are mostly cruise ships but of course there is an ever-existing challenge for any keen sailor.

During the rest of the day we cruised in the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego and later entered Beagle Channel, named after the ship Beagle. Most know the story about Darwin onboard but this was the second voyage by the same ship to the area.

In the late 1820’s Captain FitzRoy spent two years exploring the area. He was amazed by the Indians living along the fjords. Today one of our guests, Paul Hunter, gave us an excellent lecture about how the Fugiean Indians had to deal with early missionaries.

As the afternoon continued it was time for packing but also making plans for our next trip. During the Captain’s farewell cocktail hour we had a slide presentation to summarize the many highlights of this incredible trip. It will take time to put all the pictures in order as we arrive home! As we approach Ushuaia (which means bay to the west, a Yama word) after almost 4000 nautical miles journey to the Southern Ocean and Antarctica the sun broke through the clouds. Our pilot has just told us that the port was closed yesterday because of rough weather! We are lucky travelers!

We are sure that the Polar bug has hit several of you and we will soon see you back for a new adventure into Polar regions.