Erebus & Terror Gulf
Today is the very last day of the year 2002. No, it is not a dream. Today we ventured into the ice in the cold and dry eastern side of Antarctic Peninsula. The eastern side is very different from the western side, since the high mountains capture all the humidity coming from the west.
During the early morning the ship navigated through sea ice. It was an experience of a lifetime to be up at the bridge and see the officers use all of their tools to find a way through the ice. The bridge is loaded with lots of different equipment, which makes this critical navigation possible. Actually this time M.S. Endeavour was able to break new ground as we sailed between Bleak and Eagle islands in totally uncharted waters. After a few hours the sea ice got too dense and the captain had to turn around. Still we were able to make it to Eagle Island, surveyed by the Swedish Antarctic Expedition in 1902-03. Maybe we were the first ever to land since Anderson walked on the island in 1903!
Antarctica is a huge continent almost 98% covered by ice. It is also the coldest, driest, windiest…. The well-described dry valleys of the interior have not received any rainfall for maybe 1000s of years. As we landed at Eagle Island we got a slight feeling how barren, empty and lonely this part can be. Almost on the beach we found several mummified Wendell Seals. Questions like why and how immediately arose but we will never receive those answers. Still the hike was great and some of us were able to climb high up to get an overview of the area. Those who preferred to stroll along the beach suddenly found a cauldron of life in the waterline.
We also got a chance to experience katabatic wind, a strong but shallow down slope wind that sweeps along the glaciers. As the air falls and keeps cooling the speed picks up. By the time the wind reaches sea level the force can be exceptional. Still it comes and goes in minutes. These winds are something every master on every ship has to take in consideration as we anchor in this area.
The Erebus & Terror Gulf was named after the ships used by Ross. He came to the area in 1843 but Otto Nordenskjöld’s expedition later made most of the mapping in 1902-03. As we sailed away from Eagle Island we passed Vega Island, named after the ship K.A. Nordenskjöld took through the Northeast Passage 1873-74. Other names also witness the Swedish Antarctic Expedition like Andersson, Persson Island, Prince Gustav Channel.
The Swedish Antarctic Expedition itself is a great story about surviving in the Polar environment. The ship Antarctica sank in the ice, about 45 nautical miles east of Paulet Island in February 1903 as they tried to reach Snow Hill to pick up the over-wintering team. The crew from the ship had to rescue themselves in a lifeboat to Paulet Island and build a stone hut to live through the winter. Three men of the crew had earlier been dropped at Hope Bay to walk to Snowhill Island, the place Nordenskjöld had set his polar station. Now the expedition was spread out to three different locations as the winter was approaching. Luckily enough everybody was rescued by the Argentinean ship Uruguay next spring and brought back to safety.
To step on the Antarctic continent is always one of the goals for any visitor. To end the year with this highlight at a beautiful place jammed with penguins, seals and other sea birds nesting would of course be even better. The afternoon was dedicated to Brown Bluff at the northeastern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Most of the day had been gray and overcast. As we approached our site we suddenly had blue sky over us but still the surrounding areas were folded in low clouds and fog. It was very impressive to climb the slope and watch the clouds role over the land but at the same time enjoying bright sunshine. The ship was also surrounded by icebergs.
Maybe the shadow of the ship into the ice tells us that it is good to know about the past but always look ahead for new opportunities. This is our first day at the real Antarctica but the last day of the year and still many more days to come for new delights but in a new year still in Antarctica. Happy New Year!
Today is the very last day of the year 2002. No, it is not a dream. Today we ventured into the ice in the cold and dry eastern side of Antarctic Peninsula. The eastern side is very different from the western side, since the high mountains capture all the humidity coming from the west.
During the early morning the ship navigated through sea ice. It was an experience of a lifetime to be up at the bridge and see the officers use all of their tools to find a way through the ice. The bridge is loaded with lots of different equipment, which makes this critical navigation possible. Actually this time M.S. Endeavour was able to break new ground as we sailed between Bleak and Eagle islands in totally uncharted waters. After a few hours the sea ice got too dense and the captain had to turn around. Still we were able to make it to Eagle Island, surveyed by the Swedish Antarctic Expedition in 1902-03. Maybe we were the first ever to land since Anderson walked on the island in 1903!
Antarctica is a huge continent almost 98% covered by ice. It is also the coldest, driest, windiest…. The well-described dry valleys of the interior have not received any rainfall for maybe 1000s of years. As we landed at Eagle Island we got a slight feeling how barren, empty and lonely this part can be. Almost on the beach we found several mummified Wendell Seals. Questions like why and how immediately arose but we will never receive those answers. Still the hike was great and some of us were able to climb high up to get an overview of the area. Those who preferred to stroll along the beach suddenly found a cauldron of life in the waterline.
We also got a chance to experience katabatic wind, a strong but shallow down slope wind that sweeps along the glaciers. As the air falls and keeps cooling the speed picks up. By the time the wind reaches sea level the force can be exceptional. Still it comes and goes in minutes. These winds are something every master on every ship has to take in consideration as we anchor in this area.
The Erebus & Terror Gulf was named after the ships used by Ross. He came to the area in 1843 but Otto Nordenskjöld’s expedition later made most of the mapping in 1902-03. As we sailed away from Eagle Island we passed Vega Island, named after the ship K.A. Nordenskjöld took through the Northeast Passage 1873-74. Other names also witness the Swedish Antarctic Expedition like Andersson, Persson Island, Prince Gustav Channel.
The Swedish Antarctic Expedition itself is a great story about surviving in the Polar environment. The ship Antarctica sank in the ice, about 45 nautical miles east of Paulet Island in February 1903 as they tried to reach Snow Hill to pick up the over-wintering team. The crew from the ship had to rescue themselves in a lifeboat to Paulet Island and build a stone hut to live through the winter. Three men of the crew had earlier been dropped at Hope Bay to walk to Snowhill Island, the place Nordenskjöld had set his polar station. Now the expedition was spread out to three different locations as the winter was approaching. Luckily enough everybody was rescued by the Argentinean ship Uruguay next spring and brought back to safety.
To step on the Antarctic continent is always one of the goals for any visitor. To end the year with this highlight at a beautiful place jammed with penguins, seals and other sea birds nesting would of course be even better. The afternoon was dedicated to Brown Bluff at the northeastern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Most of the day had been gray and overcast. As we approached our site we suddenly had blue sky over us but still the surrounding areas were folded in low clouds and fog. It was very impressive to climb the slope and watch the clouds role over the land but at the same time enjoying bright sunshine. The ship was also surrounded by icebergs.
Maybe the shadow of the ship into the ice tells us that it is good to know about the past but always look ahead for new opportunities. This is our first day at the real Antarctica but the last day of the year and still many more days to come for new delights but in a new year still in Antarctica. Happy New Year!
