New Years Eve
We just finished our New Year’s Eve toast on the beach at midnight (Newfoundland time) after another truly amazing day in Baja California. It all started with an incredible sunrise in Puerto Escondido followed by a morning visit to the historic town of Loreto on the east coast of the Baja peninsula. From a shore Zodiac landing, we boarded buses and traveled about half an hour north along the beautiful Sierra Giganta to this quiet little mission town. Founded by the Jesuit missionary Father Salvatierra in 1697, Loreto was the major political and economic center of Baja California for over 150 years. It was only after the Jesuits were thrown out of New Spain and port facilities were built in Alta California at San Diego and Monterey that the hurricane of 1829 struck the final blow to this center of power of the Californias. The government offices were then moved to La Paz and the wonderful mission buildings that had taken over 50 years to construct were left to deteriorate in the baking Baja sun. It was only in the mid-1960s that a Padre Sanchez dedicated himself to restoring the mission church and spent his entire national lottery winnings of 500,000 pesos to rebuild the buildings and tower. Because of his good work, we were able to visit this “mother mission” and the fascinating museum next door during our stay, as well as walk around this sleepy “old Baja” town.
After lunch the Sea Bird moved to the south side of Isla Carmen for our planned afternoon at Arroyo Rojo. However, as we approached the anchorage the call came over the P.A. that a fin whale cow and calf had been sighted between the coast and us. This was indeed a treat. The calf was quite young and only took short dives over its mother who spent 10 to 14 minutes at a time, deep beneath the water’s surface. Both the mother and the young showed us their asymmetric lower jaw coloring and also their beautiful chevron marks--unique to each and every fin whale. Although we were anxious to make our afternoon landing, we spent over an hour following the whales and marveling at their beauty as our natural history staff told us about their fascinating life history.
While we went ashore and explored the dramatic and lovely Arroyo Rojo, the crew of the Sea Bird was busy at work a few coves to the east setting up a beach BBQ for us. After a scrumptious meal, some singing and some stargazing (including a telescopic view of Saturn and its rings), we celebrated New Year’s with great gratitude for such a spectacular day and such good shipmates to share it with. We wish all of you who read this a most wonderful 2003.
We just finished our New Year’s Eve toast on the beach at midnight (Newfoundland time) after another truly amazing day in Baja California. It all started with an incredible sunrise in Puerto Escondido followed by a morning visit to the historic town of Loreto on the east coast of the Baja peninsula. From a shore Zodiac landing, we boarded buses and traveled about half an hour north along the beautiful Sierra Giganta to this quiet little mission town. Founded by the Jesuit missionary Father Salvatierra in 1697, Loreto was the major political and economic center of Baja California for over 150 years. It was only after the Jesuits were thrown out of New Spain and port facilities were built in Alta California at San Diego and Monterey that the hurricane of 1829 struck the final blow to this center of power of the Californias. The government offices were then moved to La Paz and the wonderful mission buildings that had taken over 50 years to construct were left to deteriorate in the baking Baja sun. It was only in the mid-1960s that a Padre Sanchez dedicated himself to restoring the mission church and spent his entire national lottery winnings of 500,000 pesos to rebuild the buildings and tower. Because of his good work, we were able to visit this “mother mission” and the fascinating museum next door during our stay, as well as walk around this sleepy “old Baja” town.
After lunch the Sea Bird moved to the south side of Isla Carmen for our planned afternoon at Arroyo Rojo. However, as we approached the anchorage the call came over the P.A. that a fin whale cow and calf had been sighted between the coast and us. This was indeed a treat. The calf was quite young and only took short dives over its mother who spent 10 to 14 minutes at a time, deep beneath the water’s surface. Both the mother and the young showed us their asymmetric lower jaw coloring and also their beautiful chevron marks--unique to each and every fin whale. Although we were anxious to make our afternoon landing, we spent over an hour following the whales and marveling at their beauty as our natural history staff told us about their fascinating life history.
While we went ashore and explored the dramatic and lovely Arroyo Rojo, the crew of the Sea Bird was busy at work a few coves to the east setting up a beach BBQ for us. After a scrumptious meal, some singing and some stargazing (including a telescopic view of Saturn and its rings), we celebrated New Year’s with great gratitude for such a spectacular day and such good shipmates to share it with. We wish all of you who read this a most wonderful 2003.
