Furthest South

The day began with cerulean skies as we sailed through the Lemaire Channel on our way to the southernmost point of our journey. Fantastic islands of ice appeared to block the way, but the ship was able to find a path. The morning light glistened on the snow-capped peaks. A pod of killer whales, females and a baby, gave us a great feeding show. Skuas and kelp gulls circled overhead. Everyone made their way on deck to enjoy the show. Whales, birds, spectacular ice and peaks… And all before breakfast!

The landing at Peterman Island provided a chance to not only wander among colonies of gentoo and adelie penguins, but also a chance to experience Antarctica from a penguin’s-eye view in the kayaks. Lunge feeding minke whales; bathing blue-eyed shags, porpoising penguins and crystal clear water seen from water level were truly magical. The Antarctic Site Inventory has been monitoring the penguins and shags at this location since 1995. The Oceanites volunteers helped count the gentoo colony around the refuge hut. This year there are approximately 5,700 active gentoo nests, as well as 661 adelie chicks and 49 blue-eyed shag chicks inhabiting this island. It is interesting to see the trend of increasing gentoo numbers, and the decrease in the adelies.

After lunch we reached the Yalour Islands for Zodiac cruising amid the icebergs. The islands were named for an officer on the Argentine ship URUGUAY, which rescued the Swedish expedition from Paulet Island in 1903. Each of these low-lying islets is topped with small clusters of adelies, like icing on a cake. We laughed as the adults rocketed out of the water onto the icebergs, climbing high up vertical slopes for a better view. Best of all were several leopard seals found snoozing on icebergs. It was possible to get close enough to appreciate how big their mouths really are.

Sadly, it was time to leave this enchanting world defined by ice and head north again. Capt. Lampe cruised though the large sculpted bergs near Pleneau and Booth Islands. With minke whales making cameo appearances, and dramatic icebergs illuminated in the softening evening light, our day visiting the furthest south came to a lovely end as we anchored for the night at Port Lockroy.