Hull Canal and Boca de Soledad
We awoke to a stillness and silence that was surreal; the glassy calm water perfectly reflected the delicately streaked partly cloudy sky. The water and sky were one. Suddenly, Bottlenose dolphins leaped in synchrony and made a beeline for the Sea Lion for some early morning bow-riding. We marveled as they glided effortlessly in their surfing joyride at the bow. As we made our way down to breakfast, smiles glued to our faces, we knew in our hearts that this was the start of another perfect day in Baja. Later several scattered groups of dolphins were feeding on the abundant patches of schooling fishes. Throughout the morning, the only ripples were those of the fishes fleeing their predators. These waters were so alive: fishes jumping, pelicans diving, cormorants disappearing below the surface of the smooth water, resurfacing with a silvery fish. No bird or dolphin went hungry this morning. Even the many species of shorebirds were digging and probing in the exposed mudflats, feasting on the tasty morsels of invertebrates. We saw marbled godwits, whimbrels, long-billed curlews, sandpipers and ibis. Magnificent frigate birds soared overhead, occasionally swooping to steal some food from a royal tern or western gull. Coyotes romped on the dunes, munching on whatever they could find. The Hull Canal is a natural passageway between the peninsula and the barrier island of Isla Magdalena, twisting and winding into narrow passages, giving us views of the many mangroves and spectacular wind-sculpted sand dunes, all bashed by the forces of the Pacific Ocean.
As we approached Colina Coyote (a nursery area for the Gray whales), just off the small town of Puerto Lopez Mateos, we spotted our first female/calf pair, and then another, and another. Excitement rose as we anchored at the north end of the canal near Boca de Soledad (“mouth of solitude”). We donned our life vests and climbed into the Zodiacs for some cruises among the great whales. We made our way into the boca where we found many females and calves coming and going through this passageway to the Pacifica Ocean. Moms were giving their calves some beginning ‘sea-training’ the rest of the afternoon. To our delight, one of the females began to spyhop (above photo) while another swam close by our Zodiac with her calf close by, lifting it’s head (to possibly get a look at us?). Being among these great whales all afternoon, we felt deeply privileged and deeply touched. Our explorations ashore were at a sandy point near the boca where we were able to see more of the incredibly lovely shells as well as take closer looks at the mangroves.
Our day ended with a visit from local friends from the Ballena Gris that provided a lively fiesta that included a delicious Mexican feast and festive singing. As we settled in for the night, we all hoped this would last forever.
We awoke to a stillness and silence that was surreal; the glassy calm water perfectly reflected the delicately streaked partly cloudy sky. The water and sky were one. Suddenly, Bottlenose dolphins leaped in synchrony and made a beeline for the Sea Lion for some early morning bow-riding. We marveled as they glided effortlessly in their surfing joyride at the bow. As we made our way down to breakfast, smiles glued to our faces, we knew in our hearts that this was the start of another perfect day in Baja. Later several scattered groups of dolphins were feeding on the abundant patches of schooling fishes. Throughout the morning, the only ripples were those of the fishes fleeing their predators. These waters were so alive: fishes jumping, pelicans diving, cormorants disappearing below the surface of the smooth water, resurfacing with a silvery fish. No bird or dolphin went hungry this morning. Even the many species of shorebirds were digging and probing in the exposed mudflats, feasting on the tasty morsels of invertebrates. We saw marbled godwits, whimbrels, long-billed curlews, sandpipers and ibis. Magnificent frigate birds soared overhead, occasionally swooping to steal some food from a royal tern or western gull. Coyotes romped on the dunes, munching on whatever they could find. The Hull Canal is a natural passageway between the peninsula and the barrier island of Isla Magdalena, twisting and winding into narrow passages, giving us views of the many mangroves and spectacular wind-sculpted sand dunes, all bashed by the forces of the Pacific Ocean.
As we approached Colina Coyote (a nursery area for the Gray whales), just off the small town of Puerto Lopez Mateos, we spotted our first female/calf pair, and then another, and another. Excitement rose as we anchored at the north end of the canal near Boca de Soledad (“mouth of solitude”). We donned our life vests and climbed into the Zodiacs for some cruises among the great whales. We made our way into the boca where we found many females and calves coming and going through this passageway to the Pacifica Ocean. Moms were giving their calves some beginning ‘sea-training’ the rest of the afternoon. To our delight, one of the females began to spyhop (above photo) while another swam close by our Zodiac with her calf close by, lifting it’s head (to possibly get a look at us?). Being among these great whales all afternoon, we felt deeply privileged and deeply touched. Our explorations ashore were at a sandy point near the boca where we were able to see more of the incredibly lovely shells as well as take closer looks at the mangroves.
Our day ended with a visit from local friends from the Ballena Gris that provided a lively fiesta that included a delicious Mexican feast and festive singing. As we settled in for the night, we all hoped this would last forever.
