Snow Hill and Vega Islands
During the night we headed southeast through Antarctic Strait toward the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula. We were headed for the tabular icebergs coming from the Larsen Ice Shelf but we had Emperor Penguins and Nordenskjold on our minds.
Early risers at four am were treated to a spectacular sunrise with the early morning light perfect for photography. Soon others trickled to the bridge and the search for emperor penguins began in earnest. Every black and white form was scrutinized for that of a larger penguin. Just before seven a paler one was spotted on an ice floe but an ice ridge quickly blocked it before anyone could be sure. Just as quickly, Captain Skog, turned the ship hard to port to investigate. Initial impressions had been correct and we were watching our first emperor penguin of the trip and the season. Quickly dressing, guests tumbled out for what might be the rarest sighting of the trip. Continuing on toward Snow Hill Island another call went out after breakfast that a second emperor had been seen. This one was high on an iceberg and was in midmolt. A bright day had dawned and the icy setting of Erebus and Terror Gulf had provided an appropriate setting for Antarctica’s most quintessential symbol.
Arriving at Snow Hill Island, we slogged ashore in the mud at low tide to visit the Nordenskjold hut that had provided shelter for six men from 1901-1903. Here we learned of the incredible story of the three parties of this scientific expedition that over-wintered each without knowing of the existence of the other. Three men stayed at Hope Bay on the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, twenty-two from the ship Antarctic, which had become beset and sank, stayed on Paulet Island and the six scientists at Snow Hill.
After visiting the hut some guests wandered along the shoreline while others scaled the 560-foot hill behind the hut to gaze across into the Weddell Sea. Here we made a spiritual connection with the track of Shackleton and his men as they drifted northward, east of Snow Hill, on their way to Elephant Island. On Snow Hill Island, we had crossed the paths of two of the most important figures from the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration.
After entering Herbert Sound between Vega Island to the north and James Ross Island to the south, we prepared for a landing on False Island Point. The Endeavour had visited here only once before. Since there were no penguin colonies here we headed ashore with some lack of interest. But once on the beach, a wave created rocky, pebbly ridge that connected a small island with the much larger Vega Island, we realized that we were on a tombolo. We set out for the island at the end of the beach, each with a different sized peak in his sights. We had a marvelous walk in the late afternoon sun. On two occasions, icebergs lying quietly offshore, came to life, and calved. The sounds reverberated and broke the silence and the falling ice and subsequent waves created much excitement.
Over dinner we headed back east, then north, and many met on the aft deck and in the lounge to enjoy the fading light from what had been a spectacular day.
During the night we headed southeast through Antarctic Strait toward the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula. We were headed for the tabular icebergs coming from the Larsen Ice Shelf but we had Emperor Penguins and Nordenskjold on our minds.
Early risers at four am were treated to a spectacular sunrise with the early morning light perfect for photography. Soon others trickled to the bridge and the search for emperor penguins began in earnest. Every black and white form was scrutinized for that of a larger penguin. Just before seven a paler one was spotted on an ice floe but an ice ridge quickly blocked it before anyone could be sure. Just as quickly, Captain Skog, turned the ship hard to port to investigate. Initial impressions had been correct and we were watching our first emperor penguin of the trip and the season. Quickly dressing, guests tumbled out for what might be the rarest sighting of the trip. Continuing on toward Snow Hill Island another call went out after breakfast that a second emperor had been seen. This one was high on an iceberg and was in midmolt. A bright day had dawned and the icy setting of Erebus and Terror Gulf had provided an appropriate setting for Antarctica’s most quintessential symbol.
Arriving at Snow Hill Island, we slogged ashore in the mud at low tide to visit the Nordenskjold hut that had provided shelter for six men from 1901-1903. Here we learned of the incredible story of the three parties of this scientific expedition that over-wintered each without knowing of the existence of the other. Three men stayed at Hope Bay on the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, twenty-two from the ship Antarctic, which had become beset and sank, stayed on Paulet Island and the six scientists at Snow Hill.
After visiting the hut some guests wandered along the shoreline while others scaled the 560-foot hill behind the hut to gaze across into the Weddell Sea. Here we made a spiritual connection with the track of Shackleton and his men as they drifted northward, east of Snow Hill, on their way to Elephant Island. On Snow Hill Island, we had crossed the paths of two of the most important figures from the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration.
After entering Herbert Sound between Vega Island to the north and James Ross Island to the south, we prepared for a landing on False Island Point. The Endeavour had visited here only once before. Since there were no penguin colonies here we headed ashore with some lack of interest. But once on the beach, a wave created rocky, pebbly ridge that connected a small island with the much larger Vega Island, we realized that we were on a tombolo. We set out for the island at the end of the beach, each with a different sized peak in his sights. We had a marvelous walk in the late afternoon sun. On two occasions, icebergs lying quietly offshore, came to life, and calved. The sounds reverberated and broke the silence and the falling ice and subsequent waves created much excitement.
Over dinner we headed back east, then north, and many met on the aft deck and in the lounge to enjoy the fading light from what had been a spectacular day.
