Today was filled with rich color and texture. We awoke underway, southbound for Isla Partida. Ensenada Grande is a deep cove in the island’s much-crenulated western shore. We were soon in Zodiacs headed for fun.
Isla Partida, like most of the east coast of the Gulf of California, is constructed of tuff, a rock made of the ashy eruptions of many an ancient volcano. Here tuff has been sculpted into remarkable forms. The rain-soaked surface, cemented by minerals, is harder than the rock lying below, so wind and wave sculpt it into a weird landscape looking like Baked Alaska gone awry. We kayaked past pink stony curtains and snorkeled beneath their bizarre forms. Long walkers scrambled over dry waterfalls and chaotic boulders to reach a spectacular overview of the island. Short walkers enjoyed the vibrant green of a recently watered desert.
After lunch we anchored in the lee of Los Islotes, a rocky extension of the Espiritu Santo Island group. Wave-carved tuff suggests castle ramparts, arches, and towers. Pink rock is blanketed in the frost and snow left by pelicans and frigatebirds. And resting sea lions encircle the island. These marine mammals retreat to Los Islotes after several hard days’ fishing, and appear practically boneless in relaxed abandon. They sprawl over the rocks, looking like melted chocolates or piles of dirty laundry. But each interruption, such as the jostling arrival of a new napper, initiates such outraged caterwauling that the whole island echoes with a steady cacophony.
Though sea lions seem lumpish and awkward ashore, they reveal their true selves below the waves. Here they soar and glide like jet-powered ballerinas. Snorkelers enjoyed the antics of juvenile ‘lions, which combine playful curiosity and coy shyness like frisky puppies.
While at Los Islotes, those in Zodiacs and on the ship enjoyed the breaching of yet another humpback whale! Any educated and impartial mind must agree that humpbacks are the shapeliest and most winsome of whales.
And at last, the sky was variegated with gold and pearl as we left Los Islotes for the evening’s harbor.
