Christianso/Bornholm, Denmark

Moving through the night, the Endeavour made her way north, heading for a small cluster of islands near the southern most end of Denmark. Our morning stop would be the island of Christianso. There was a weather front moving in over the Baltic Sea, and we felt the first brush of that weather force as the Endeavour approached her anchorage. Our landing sight was scouted by Expedition Leader Tom O’Brien, while our fleet of Zodiacs were launched and made ready for the mornings’ expedition ashore.

Christiano was founded in 1684 by Christian V. What remains today are the fortifications built by that King so long ago....mixed with charming yellow cottages decorating much of the island Small paths separate the clusters of old timbered cottages along with flower gardens growing down to the waters edge. Tied to the peers inside the safe harbor of Christiano were a myriad of beautifully hand crafted lap-strake boats.

Once Zodiacs brought one and all from the Endeavour on shore, we had an opportunity to walk those peaceful paths, photograph, talk with the locals and enjoy the tranquil surroundings of a sheltered community.....far from the fast pace of the outside world and the winds of an approaching weather front just outside the harbor!

Shortly before 10:00AM a flurry of activity began around a beautiful three-masted bark that was tied up on one side of the harbor. This sailing ship with foremast and mainmast square-rigged and mizzenmast fore-and-aft rigged was under preparation to leave port and continue her voyage heading towards Copenhagen. Onboard was a group of young people just finishing their naval training of five months and ready to go home and sleep in their own beds! As some lines were dropped from this lovely old wooden sailing ship, cheers broke out amongst the crew....accompanied by applause from the local towns people....what a sight to watch, as the remaining lines were stretched across the narrow channel entrance to Chrisianso, positioning this large vessel, for her exit out into the Southern Baltic. The narrow iron draw bridge that provides passage for foot traffic from one side of the island to the other, was moved by pulleys out of the way of this tall vessel and slowly she began maneuvering out of the enclosed and protected waters of Christianso. Once the harbor was clear, the iron draw bridge was angled back into place and foot traffic resumed.

Once the excitement was finished, our Zodiacs were brought back into position to begin ferrying people from Christianso back to the Endeavour. But, not without one last look at the small, quiet sea-faring population of this tiny isle.....a lone fishermen approached the dock we were using for landing, smoking a pipe, wearing the customary blue overalls of a Scandinavian fishermen, and maneuvering his gorgeous hand-made skiff into place. We wondered what life could be like in this peaceful but isolated community, so close to other larger islands, and the countries of Sweden, Poland and Germany, yet so far from the chaos of the outside world. We could see a life that was controlled by changing weather patterns.....and when the weather gets bad for this man, he would remain home and enjoy the shelter and peace of Christianso, much as the residents of this island have done for hundreds of years.