South Georgia

Yesterday we made a visit to Grytviken, the start of Shackleton’s great voyage and his aim was to launch the first Trans-Antarctic expedition. He left in December 1914 for the Weddell Sea. Most of us know the story how the ship Endurance was crushed by the ice and sank. The men had to escape over ice to later end up at Elephant Island. Shackleton and five of his brave men were able to make one of the most remarkable sailing adventures in history in a boat the size of a Zodiac, which sailed from Elephant Island towards South Georgia. When they arrived at the southern coastline of South Georgia, which is very rugged and houses offer very little protection Shackleton and two of his companions had to make an incredible mountain hike to find rescue. This “hike” which was repeated much later by several well fit and trained mountainers first about 50 years later.

Today we landed early in the morning at Fortuna Bay in heavy snow fall. We were about to do the last “easy” part of Shackleton’s incredible walk. At least the snowfall gave us a slight feeling of how Shackleton and his men had to face nature. After some struggle for us we arrived to Stromness only one day later after our visit to Grytviken. For Shackleton it took more than 600 days!

As we came down to the old whaling station the sun came out. First we could see Ellerbeck Peak and then the whole bay. The views of the surrounding scenery were just breathtaking. We could make a brief visit by Zodiac (we are not allowed to walk in the old whaling station) to see the house there these hardy and brave men had the first nice bath and good meal for many years. For us it is hard to image how they felt!

At the beach we also saw amazing numbers of Fur Seals. The males have recently set the territory and in a few days the females will arrive. Very soon this beach will be as busy as any crowed street around the world.

The afternoon we spent at Hercules Bay. The name probably given to this place because of the high cliffs rising straight out of the sea. Light-mantled Albatross in large numbers were showning the impressive courtship flight. The pair fly close together and make simultanius flight changes.

The bay is also a famous site for the colonies of Macaroni Penguins, by far the most numerues penguin at South Georgia but still very hard to reach. They prefer to breed in very steep hillsides but here we were able to achieve a rough landing and get some close in-sight of the penguin life.

After long and adventures day we had a recap to round up two very busy and exciting days. The day ended with a amazing set up in the dining room with our Philipino Dinner. Time to rest and load batteries, it is an early start for Wandering Albatross tomorrow!