Southern Isabela Island

Captain Pablo Garces anchored the Islander just after dawn, in the shelter of the islets that protect Puerto Villamil from the ocean waves. We disembarked early this morning on the main town dock, following a hearty breakfast, and boarded pickup truck taxis that were outfitted with benches and could comfortably carry 6 or 8 of us. Well, comfortably may be a bit of an exaggeration. It was a bone bouncing and damp, chilly 45 minute ride up a gravel road past dry zone cactus and then through a lush green forest to the dusty trail that leads to the rim of Sierra Negra. Here we all set off in the garua mist to climb several hundred feet to the summit of Sierra Negra to view the recent lava flows that poured forth from an eruption on the northern rim of the volcano just two weeks ago.

We were divided into a “faster & farther” group and those who’s goal was just to reach the rim. The weather was fickle; sun and warmth at times and then cool moist garua would blow in and hide the immense caldera below us from view. Between garua clouds we all glimpsed the huge flows of jet black lava – still hot, no doubt – that have so recently filled half the caldera. There are sulfur fumaroles spewing forth hot vapors both on the caldera floor and on the northern rim. And the western slopes of Sierra Negra are burning – we could see the smoke – from fires lit by the scorching lava rivers. Below were we stood on the rim the vegetation was burn and the air still smelled of smoke.

The “faster & farther” group came to the end of the trail along the rim and new cinders crunched beneath their feet. As one man mentioned – it is not every day that you stand upon new rock, that only days before was molten and deep with in the earth. By the time we had treaded back down the slope to our pickup taxis we were foot sore and covered in red volcanic dust. But every one of us – naturalists, and guests alike – were thrilled to have had the opportunity to view the newly erupted lava fields of Volcan Sierra Negra.

Lunch was especially delicious, as we were all very hungry. And the siesta could not have been sweeter. In the afternoon, we toured the Tortoise Breeding Center and were privileged to see a recently hatched giant tortoise. Several of the rare and odd “flat backed” tortoises captured our imagination (see today’s photo). Along a boardwalk to the beach, we found several brilliant pink flamingoes. We enjoyed seafood snacks and cold beer at La Choza and returned to the good ship Islander wondering what mañana could possibly bring that could out do today….