Westmann Islands, Iceland

Our expedition starts off with an early wake-up call, “Killer Whales off the bow.” We are in the Westmann Islands, a group of small volcanic islands along the southwestern coast of Iceland. This is not a drill. We assemble on deck, the Orca are swimming in formation, occasionally slapping their tail flukes gathering fish. As the whales rise to the surface, swarms of birds hover over them, also looking for a morning snack. It’s quite a show as lesser black-backed gulls, northern fulmars, and the occasional northern gannet fight among themselves for herring.

After breakfast the National Geographic Endeavour makes a close approach to Surtsey, an island born from the sea in 1963 by submarine volcanic eruptions. Located along the mid-Atlantic Ridge, the world’s longest mountain range (mostly submerged) that runs the entire length of Atlantic Ocean, Iceland is known as the island of “Fire and Ice.” Surtsey is named for the Norse God Surtur, appointed to set fire to the earth the day the Gods fall. Here, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are moving apart, magma rose to the surface in spectacular fashion until 1967 constructing an island of island of ash fall tuff and lava 3 kilometers square. Today, Surtsey is a laboratory for scientists studying the colonization of this new earth. It is also being proposed as a World Heritage Site, perhaps a temporary designation as the island has already lost 30% of its size due to erosion by the North Sea.

Following lunch the ship makes a dramatic entrance to the protected harbor of Heimaey, site of an even more recent volcanic eruption. At 2am on January 23, 1973, the eastern slope of the volcano just above town exploded. For the next five months, the earth spewed 30 million tons of tephra and lava to create a new mountain. As the island grew about 15% in size, one third of the town was buried beneath the lava. Amazingly, no one was killed by the eruption and the lava constructed an even better harbor than existed before. Today, Heimaey is one of the most important fishing ports in Iceland with a population of 4,000 inhabitants. On shore, we make an excursion to the crater, site of the 1973 eruption. The earth is still hot here, and we are treated to an amazing view of town where it was engulfed by the lava flow.

Back on board the Endeavour makes her way out of the harbor. Before dinner we meet the Captain and his Officers. We are off to a great start exploring Iceland, the Land of Fire and Ice…