At Sea
Finally a chance to sleep! For the last four days we have enjoyed the beaches and coves of South Georgia in the emerging light of morning, rising early to catch the sun’s warm rosy glow, while we grappled to experience everything this amazing sub-Antarctic island had to offer. We watched quietly as the enormous wandering albatross sat patiently on its nest, awaiting the winds it so gracefully glides on; we gaped in amazement at the sheer numbers of king penguins moving in throngs in the colonies at St. Andrew’s Bay and Salisbury Plain; and we giggled at the Weaners as they investigated whether we had any milk to offer.
But today we are slightly subdued - perhaps it is the motion of the ship against the sea, or perhaps this is a welcome excuse for some down time. Whatever the case it is much quieter than usual as we sit in the lounge absorbing the enormity of the sea around us, are absorbed by lectures and the chance to finally download our hundreds (maybe thousands) of photos.
As spectacular as the terrestrial world of South Georgia is with its hanging glaciers, lush green melt water valleys, and the constant cacophony of animals great and small, South Georgia has another hidden treasure just below the ocean’s surface. Magnus Haard as dive buddy, and myself as Undersea Specialist, have the pleasure of going beneath the ocean’s surface to gather pictures of this exquisite underwater community, so the guests of National Geographic Explorer can enjoy them in the comfort of the Lounge during our evening recaps. South Georgia underwater is a unique community, encompassing invertebrate species from the Falkland Islands, Antarctic Peninsula, as well species specific only to South Georgia. As the Southernmost range of the Giant Kelp Forest, it can be like any wander in the woods, you never know what you will find. This voyage we came across many sea spiders. More closely related to horseshoe crabs than aracnids, it is all “guts and gonads” the internal organs stretched down the long legs. We also were fortunate to come across an Icefish. Fish in the Southern Ocean have adaptations to handle these frigid waters while still being productive. One of the many traits Icefish have is the development of osteoporosis so as to be neutrally buoyant in the water, as the fish do not have swim bladders. Currently, this evolutionary trait is being studied by scientists through fish RNA to perhaps find a cure for the human condition of Osteoporosis.
South we head towards the Antarctic Peninsula where a whole new set of adventures and experiences await.