Drake Passage / Beagle Channel

Continuing our journey north after three incredible weeks in the southern ocean we are in the Beagle channel yet again—this time with a lifetime’s worth of memories and photos from the end of the earth. About mid-day today we had our first glimpse of the South American continent since our journey began, which also meant our first glimpse of trees in just as long. While South Georgia and the Falkland Islands offered vegetation there is something about not seeing trees for an extended period of time that really brings home the inhospitable nature of the places we travel to—this itinerary being no exception. As we neared the mainland after nearly a day and a half crossing of the Drake Passage, we were greeted with our first sighting of Cape Horn through a shroud of clouds and sea spray. The waves picked up a bit during our approach, a normal chain of events as we enter shallower and shallower waters, and with the waves came a feeling of exhilaration, a reminder (at least for me) that the Drake is not done with you until it says so. And, with Black Browed Albatross and Giant Petrels near constant companions throughout our northbound journey I couldn’t help but be reminded of the following poem from Sara Vial:
 

I am the Albatross who awaits you
at the end of the earth.
I am the forgotten soul of the dead mariners
who rounded Cape Horn
from all the seas of the world.
But they did not perish
in the furious waves.
Today they fly on my wings
For all eternity
In the ultimate embrace
of the Antarctic winds.
-Sara Vial December, 1992