Mousa & Fair Isle, Shetland
Continuing our way through the Shetlands today, we delved further into the enigmatic history of the Picts. These diminutive people were among the first known inhabitants of the islands here and could have been the first encountered by the Vikings when moving west from Norway. Or perhaps, it’s only coincidence that their civilization disappeared as the Norse invaders arrived. Either way, the enigmatic Picts, or “painted ones,” that inhabited Scotland and its outer islands from at least 1000 BC remained relatively lost in the annals of history until the turn of the last century when some spectacular storms from the North Sea slammed into Shetland and uncovered a few of the former Pict settlements. Jarlshof, our destination yesterday, was one such location.
Today, however, we stopped at the great Broch on Mousa Island, a Pict structure for both defense and shelter. This tower was never buried by time and weather, but has instead stood defiantly against the harsh conditions of this remote locale to serve as a remarkable reminder of the skill and ingenuity of the Picts.
These fascinating structures, which once dotted the landscapes of many of the nearby islands, are stunning to behold. Some, like the one seen here, reach over 40 feet in height and were constructed without the use of a single trowel of mortar. The native sandstone is ideal for “dry-stack” construction and is a resource still in use today.
We reached the Broch after a short, meandering stroll across the island, which gave us a chance to observe some of the local wildlife before examining the engineering marvel up close. Cormorants, fulmars and bonxies (or skuas) were abundant and easily spotted, but some of us were even more pleased with our close encounters with the resting groups of grey and harbor seals. A mixed assortment of males and females were spotted mostly lazing away the early morning hours, though some were less than thrilled to see us come over the horizon and chose to keep a wary eye on us from the shallow waters. Their caution is understandable though considering how frequently they have been persecuted by local fisherman.
We finished off our day with a visit to the famed Fair Isle. Though shrouded in thick fog and mist, the island and its inhabitants welcomed us ashore to learn more about its unique history as well as its important significance as a seabird haven and stop-over. Some of us also took advantage of the opportunity to stretch our legs by traversing the hilly island en route to the museum and community center where we perused some of the local wares and sampled the afternoon tea offerings.
By the time we were back and board and finished with dinner, it seemed most were overcome by the events of the day and retired to our cabins for some rest, reflection and perhaps a bit of wonder for what tomorrow may hold.
