Española Island

A group of eager kayakers – including a birthday girl – headed out before breakfast to paddle our bright yellow boats along the cliff face of Gardner Islet. The kayakers were escorted by playful sea lions and sea lions and humans both had a “super chevere” time.

After a hearty breakfast of omelets, plantain patties and platters of tropical fruit, three Zodiacs of snorkelers returned to Gardner Islet where we continued to be entertained by – and seemingly also, to entertain – the sea lions. There were huge schools of five spotted anthias fish and a couple of spotted eagle rays. The water was calm and clear and a lovely color of azure blue.

On the gorgeous white sand beach the garua rolled over us in clouds that alternated with bright sunshine; while the sun was out the water was a sparkling turquoise. Nearly three hundred sea lions sprawled on the beach, a few young bulls wrestled in the surf, and “teenage’ pups swam or investigated our back packs. The endemic Española mockingbirds ran to and fro on the beach, searching for anything possibly edible, or hoping for a stolen drink from our water bottles. When noon came and it was time to leave I had to coax the guests off this absolutely stunning beach!

The afternoon’s walk at Punta Suarez, along a lava boulder trail, was a magnificent end to what has been an unforgettable week. Sea lions greeted us, we walked among reddish marine iguanas, observed the largest lava lizards of the archipelago, passed through colonies of courting blue-footed and Nazca boobies, and found over a dozen fluffy gray albatross chicks. We were wetted by the garua and dried in the sun and wind.

Yes, what a fabulous finale to a wonderful week in this magical archipelago.