Isabela and Fernandina

Today we experienced mysterious Galápagos. Northern Isabela volcanoes were surrounded by clouds; circling bird species kept us looking in all directions, and we spotted an uncommon creature – the stripped dolphin, which was difficult to identify as striped as common dolphins look very similar. We drew close enough to be able to see the stripe that goes from the eye all the way down to the fin.

Isabela is one of the young formations of the Galápagos group. As we stood on deck we could feel the energy of the volcanoes that shaped it. As we sailed around the head of the seahorse shaped island we were greatly surprised by Darwin volcano – one of the five shield-shaped formations that have made this island and are also known to be a characteristic of oceanic islands. As we drew closer we could see the subsequent gentle basaltic lava flows that make islands over thousands or millions of years. Isabela, or Albermarle, is a young formation at around 500,000 years old. Due to age and size this is a particularly interesting environment. The volcanoes here have their own endemic set of species that have evolved in isolation.

The green color of the rich waters of the northern Galápagos can be seen from the ship. It is also known as an up well, which is extremely rich in nutrients and responsible the marine species found today. Although the water was slightly cloudy, we were delighted to snorkel with at least a dozen sea turtles and a couple of friendly sea lions. Cormorants where seen from the water, they where more into drying their wings in the sun than getting in the water with us.

The Bolivar channel towards Fernandina Island in the afternoon was at its best!

Unlike other Islands, Fernandina has not been affected by introduced large species, and it is considered among the two most pristine island ecosystems on earth. The young lava flows that made Fernandina also created some of the most breathtaking landscapes of the archipelago. The giant marine iguanas greeted us and kept us company all along the trail. A couple of Galápagos Oyster Catchers greeted each other displaying their monogamous behavior, after the greeting one of them that was incubating returned to the nest to make sure the eggs where still there!

As we headed back to the ship, the sun was beginning to go down, and we witnessed an amazing colorful sky that said goodbye to us.