George Island, Elfin Cove, Inian Islands
Before breakfast Captain Coughlin steered the National Geographic Sea Bird into Idaho Inlet, where we spied some sea otters quietly floating on their backs holding their heads and feet out of the water. Pairs were tumbling and frolicking together. Lacking a blubber layer that other marine mammals possess, their thick fur is what keeps the otters warm. They are in constant motion, grooming and rolling to incorporate air into their pelage for additional insulation.
George Island was our destination for the morning, where we had the opportunity to kayak, hike, or explore the intertidal zone. A little-known artillery emplacement was a surprise for the hikers. Salvaged from a WWI ship, the strategically placed 6” Mark X Naval pedestal gun guarded a crucial entrance to Southeast Alaska during WWII. Other relics and dilapidated buildings can be seen around this small island. Numerous banana slugs, sporting army camouflage coloration, were nevertheless detected along the trail.
Intertidal organisms are very specialized for their harsh environment. They need to be able to withstand long periods of time without water and cling to the substrate so they are not washed away. Ocher sea stars, sculpins, and an eel-like prickleback were among other critters seen during the low tide.
Before we repositioned during lunch, we picked up a guest from the nearby community of Elfin Cove – a quaint boardwalk hamlet built along a rocky cove. Long-time resident Mary Jo Lord Wild related what it is like to live in this remote place. We rode the Zodiacs to the dock and enjoyed a short visit to the museum and gift shops that line the boardwalk. The friendly local dogs and cats and their owners were all out to greet us in the sunshine.
Steller (northern) sea lions are found on the rocks and in the water around the Inian Islands. Located between Cross Sound and Icy Strait, tides, currents and cold up-wellings mix up the waters around the islands and stimulate the food chain. The incoming tide brings salmon from the Pacific Ocean and the sea lions are ready and waiting for these returning migrants, interrupting their life cycle before they reach their final goal. Gulls descend upon any sea lion grappling with a fish, hoping for some scraps. With all the activity here, we had a supreme “Steller” wildlife experience.
Earlier in the day, Naturalist Justin Hofman had put on a wetsuit to explore the cold water (48 degrees F!) with a video camera. At recap this evening he showed us the footage and told the story of his dive, including a visit by a couple of Steller sea lions. Large animals appear even bigger underwater and can be very intimidating. Justin retreated into the kelp to film colorful snails, sea stars and jellies.
