Cross Sound
This morning guests aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird awoke amongst sea otters in Idaho Inlet. On the northern coast of Chichagof Island, Idaho Inlet was named for the mail streamer Idaho that on a hoax entered this inlet in 1883 after the captain was persuaded this was a shortcut to Sitka. After getting stuck in the mud at the head of the bay the Idaho had seen better days. Our sustained luck provided a different experience as we spent the pre-breakfast hours on bow and bridge enjoying the antics and adorability of otters at play and preening. Learning about the role of otters in Russian America, we realized we were seeing a species that played an important role in the history of Alaska.
After breakfast we dressed in most, if not all of our layers and explored by Zodiac the incredibly rich waters surrounding the Inian Islands. With the flood tide rising, the waters of Cross Sound were dynamic, if not turbulent. Whirlpools and strong current seemed to mix the aquatic soup of fish and krill for all life large and small to feast from. Black-legged kittiwakes skimmed the surface while puffins disappeared beneath the surface, followed by murrelets and guillemots.
On the larger side of the food chain, Steller sea lions broke the surface with lion like grunts, canine like teeth, throwing their immense weight around and making our Zodiac seem insignificant. There is something about being around a 1400-pound carnivore that really provides a sense of awe and peace.
Humpback whales were soon spotted and the deep breathing of one individual was amplified along the rock bound coast. Sea otters foraged along the shoreline searching for creatures of the kelp forest while bald eagles soared beneath the clouds. The extraordinary activity of Cross Sound is testament to the healthy waters of Southeast Alaska and the abundance of life that fuels the food chain!
After lunch we re-positioned to George Island for a hike that would take us back in time. With every sign of man (a boiler, collapsed bridge, barracks) we passed en route to the cannon, the story would unfold of the history of military in Alaska. The presence of armed forces in Alaska dates back to the day the U.S flag was raised in Sitka in 1867. With no government the presence of the army and then navy were the first governing bodies of the recent acquisition. WWII proved to be the key event in promoting Alaska’s modern development. The bombing of Dutch harbor and occupation of Attu and Kiska by the Japanese brought new urgency to Alaska’s strategic position in the theatre of war in the pacific. While gun emplacements like the one on George Island never saw any action the impacts of war forever changed the history of Alaska by bringing defense dollars, thousands of people north and paving the way for statehood!
