Inian Islands/Elfin Cove

We awoke in Idaho Inlet enjoying the brisk weather while we were surrounded by dozens of sea otters. Here on the National Geographic Sea Bird we have a very active group. After yesterday’s intensity of adventure we might have expected a lack of energy. Many of us began our day enjoying the misty views and stretch class. However, rather than exhaustion, our guests and staff were ready for more weather, wildlife, and learning.

We spent the morning at the Inian Islands. Using our zodiacs we visited a haul-out used by Steller Sea Lions. Steller Sea Lions are the larger relatives of the California Sea Lion. We found many playful males barking, yelping, and actually harassing us. At one point we thought one might jump in our zodiac! We also admired their beauty, enormous size, and strength. While they seem to flop around awkwardly on the land, they are remarkable swimmers with evident grace. It was amazing to have such close encounters with them.

Soon, in the immediate distance, we spotted blows. We had humpbacks close by! What a gift it is to be so close to the surface of the ocean, as we could smell their breath, hear their pectoral slaps, and witness their tail lobbing. Camera shutters flashed as eagles, gulls, kittiwakes, marbled murrelets, and puffins flew by. Inian Pass and Cross Sound provided food rich currents where all kinds of wildlife aggregated to feed. We felt the privilege of the moment.

Later, we arrived at Elfin Cove which is a small fishing village located on the south side of Inian pass. Mary Jo Lordwild, a long-time resident, came on board and shared stories of what it is like to live in a town with a population of 20 people with no roads, only boardwalks, plenty of fishermen, and sometimes more dogs than people. We took zodiacs into town and appreciated this small community as the locals shared their local history, art, smoked salmon, and way of life.

As we left Elfin Cove we were delighted with our day and the progress of this expedition. It’s only the third day and we have already had so many amazing experiences! As the evening approached, the wind began to howl 35 to 40 knots and the rain slashed down sideways. After spending so much of our day in the elements we spent our evening cozy and warm in the lounge, learning to use our cameras, sharing endless photos and stories.

As our heads hit the pillow we enjoyed the gentle rocking of the ship outside of Glacier Bay where we had picked up our National Park Service ranger who will escort us into the magic of the Bay tomorrow. It has been another amazing day.