Tracy Arm
The early morning was a moody mix of shiny wet rocks, low clouds transforming trees into works of art and peek-a-boo views of high glaciers running out from under low clouds. There was enormous beauty.
After winding through one of the most beautiful fjords in the world we found a quiet spot amongst large floating pieces of ice where we soon dropped boats. Zodiacs are often the key that unlocks the door to adventure for us. After breakfast and briefings we boarded them for a closer look at South Sawyer Glacier.
We were soon surrounded by small chunks of brash ice, bits of bergs and a few true icebergs. The presence of these is a good indicator that a glacier is calving frequently. We approached the two hundred foot wall of ice that was stuffed into the end of the fjord. The sides and lower sections had intense aqua blues mixed with lighter colors. Sharp rifle-like sounds made us all search the face for the little pieces that might tumble down and alert us to a big calving. Massive chunks sometimes fell. One sky-high pinnacle called a serac pivoted out from its base like a 10 story building being slowly pushed over. It dropped dramatically into the sea followed by an explosion of white water that shot half way up the face. Several times wide chunks crashed downwards shattering and dislodging others they hit.
We even had a few shooters break loose from the face below the water line and emerge as if they were blue monsters. Their form and size is only seen as they grow out of the sea like some icy mystical birth. Shooters are way cool.
Kayaking filled much of our afternoon. Although overcast, it was dry, perfect for paddling. There is great satisfaction in having your own boat to poke around in, independent from the ship and free to drink in the solitude, or look at rock patterns for too long to be reasonable. The first days of a trip are also special. It seems like at this time the freedom to explore Southeast Alaska will last for ever. Time is abundant and the delicious break from responsibilities is palpable.
We heard from interesting speakers as well. Later in the afternoon Dr. John McCosker gave a presentation entitled “Where Have All the Salmon Gone?”, a very interesting and pertinent talk. After dinner Tim and Jenny, two National Forest Service Wilderness Rangers that had joined us earlier by kayak, gave a talk on Tongass National Forest and the role of Wilderness.
All of that and a delicious dinner was a lot to pack into a day. The last light illuminated scenery with mountain peaks and great visibility.
