Petersburg & Wrangell Narrows
A low pressure area from the southwest modified our plans a bit today. Winds picked up in the early morning and heavy consistent rain dappled the sea around us. We arrived in Petersburg before breakfast and planned our outings in town, on the docks and to a muskeg.
Most of the boats in the fleet were in the harbor, allowing photographers ample subjects to photograph. Hull colors of blue, dull red and white were great to have in the palette for images. Repeating patterns appeared and disappeared as we walked along looking at the rigging of similarly equipped boats docked in a line.
As we walked into town, we passed the Bojer Wikan Fishermen’s Memorial where some of us stayed for awhile. The plaque below the bronze fishermen reads, “Sponsored and maintained by the Sons of Norway, Fedrelandet #23 and the City of Petersburg to provide a commemorative setting to: Acknowledge those community members who have been lost at sea and/or spent much of their lives working directly in the fishing industry for their families and for the fishing community.” It seems odd how this statement has little meaning until you walk around the memorial and read the many names of the families this monument stands for. They were fishermen that had children and loved ones and a history of always leaving for the sea and then one day not coming home. We just buy the fish for the best price and eat them. They were “lost at sea.”
The bookstore was one of the more popular spots in town. It was even better on a rainy day. The friendly and smiling shopkeeper said to each customer as they walked in, “Would you mind leaving your raincoat on the chair on the porch outside.” You could look down at the floor and see circles of water where each person had stood before. When the moisture collects on the front of your hood to form a drop that runs down and drips onto the sentence you’re reading, it’s just too late to take your rain jacket off.
A few guests went into every gift shop and clothing store on the main street. That doesn’t take very long. The hardware store was another popular place. These are places like windows that help you peer deeper into a community. It was a great place to look at commercial trolling equipment. Most people didn’t buy much. They just looked at the friendly locals, the real treasures here.
Our nature hike started after a short Zodiac ride across the Wrangell Narrows. We were soon walking over a green carpet with stunted shore pines, Alaska yellow cedar and mountain hemlocks growing out of the slightly higher ground. Numerous small ponds were filled with interlocking circles as the rain beat down.
Muskeg is from an Algonquin term for a bog. Temperate rain forests are cold and wet. These conditions are unfavorable for bacteria, so rot slows and acidic conditions prevail. This is perfect for sphagnum moss which holds water and continues to make these areas more acidic. A Ph of 4.4 – 3.8 or lower is not uncommon. What a great place to bury a body. That is exactly what was done in the bronze and iron ages 2300 to 2400 years ago. Peat bogs were considered to be sacrificial sites and their victims perhaps contributed to improved weather and crop production.
The late afternoon found us leaving the south end of Wrangell Narrows and heading into a memorable swell. High winds continued until we anchored in protected cove within Etolin Island. On our way we encountered bubblenet feeding whales in a three foot swell. The photo is of two of those whales fluking up for another attempt.
We are all greatly relieved to be tucked into this snug anchorage where the howl of the wind is abating and our early evening will be restful.
