Lake Eva and Red Bluff Bay
We started our explorations this morning at the Lake Eva trail, Hanus Bay, Baranof Island, in the heart of the Tongass National Forest. A calm morning with high clouds and perfect temperatures for hiking and a newly-constructed trail made us light on our feet. We often found ourselves at the margins of watery places: beach and saltwater lagoon, stream, river, and pond. There were good spots to pause, to look at the wildflowers blooming or giant trees with gnarled roots, squirrel middens or bear scat, gnarly mistletoe-infected branches or water flowing over the rocky river bed. The air was rich and sweet with the scents of vegetation. Some groups of hikers took time to appreciate the symphony of bird songs along the way: Pacific-slope flycatchers, hermit thrushes, winter wrens, chestnut-backed chickadees, eagles and ravens joined the chorus. The “aerobic” group may not have paused to listen to birds, but then again, they saw a mother bear with a cub!
After hiking we boarded Zodiacs for cruising or got in kayaks for a paddle. Harbor seals were abundant here, popping up like big-eyed periscopes, shy yet curious. Eagles perched and soared. The tide was just right, halfway in so that the colorful intertidal zone was partly exposed yet we had room to cruise amongst protruding rocks. Those who stayed out long enough were treated to some true Alaska rain forest weather, a sudden rain that turned the trip back to our cozy ship into a real Southeast Alaska experience.
The afternoon was spent cruising along the eastern shore of Baranof Island, poking in to look at a beautiful waterfall, listening to a talk on marine mammals by Lee and taking advantage of the expertise of our photo experts. Evening found us at Red Bluff Bay. The mountains had their finery on, misty cloaks that caused jagged peaks to appear and disappear, layers of clouds that wreathed tree-clad ridges. There were splendid waterfalls to engage us, and new views came into sight continuously as we wound our way through narrow passages into the bay. Coming around one such corner, we spotted a brown bear grazing in the meadow just beyond a rocky beach. Unconcerned with our presence, it continued its evening snack of fresh greens as we drifted nearby. At times not a sound could be heard, each of us quiet, wrapped in wonder and privileged to be close to this magnificent animal while he grazed. As we slowly eased away, the bear continued its meal, undisturbed, going on with its life in this big wild place where its ancestors have lived for thousands of years.
