Bahia Loreto Marine Park & Isla Monserrate
Early risers gathered on the bow this morning, clad in jackets against the brisk westerly breeze. Binoculars in hand, we waited patiently for our first glimpse of the sun. Those on the bridge deck saw it first, and alerted those on the bow below with a shout of delight. Several skeptics became believers this morning, as we were treated to a fabulous “green flash,” with even a bit of violet and blue thrown in! This atmospheric phenomenon occurs both at sunrise and sunset, either as the first sliver of the sun emerges above, or the last sliver drops below, the horizon. Refraction of light rays through the earth’s atmosphere allows us to see a hint of green, just before, or after, the actual disk of the sun is visible.
The waters of the Bahía Loreto Marine Park are very productive, so we spent our entire morning in search of marine life… and we weren’t disappointed. After our safety drill and briefings, in the middle of checking out our snorkel gear, we sighted a blue whale! As the largest creature ever to have lived on earth, the sight and sound of this enormous cetacean leaves an indelible impression. We spent over an hour watching and waiting, photographing and listening, as this whale surfaced to breathe and then dove again. Astonishingly, this animal did something blue whales seldom do. After a few rolling breaths, it arched its back and raised its tail flukes, before disappearing for a deeper, longer dive. What a treat, on our first morning in the Sea of Cortez.
We’d planned to visit Isla Santa Catalina, but moderate southerly winds dictated a change of plans. We made a turn to the right, and headed for Playa de Oro, or Yellowstone Beach, at the north end of Isla Monserrate. With a long sandy beach, backed by golden cliffs of ancient marine sediment, this site offered us everything we could want for the afternoon. Snorkelers chose either a beach or Zodiac entry, and found an abundance of fish, both colorful and camouflaged.
Adventurous hikers set out with Pete, walking along a seemingly never-ending arroyo for a few hours. Those wanting a more leisurely exploration of this desert ecosystem joined William for a wander up this same arroyo. Gretchen and Sharon guided the snorkelers down the beach to find “cool dead things,” hundreds of seashells and wildflowers in bloom. Returning to the ship in the gorgeous late afternoon light, we all agreed that it had been a lovely afternoon, and that sometimes, being flexible and changing plans can bring wonderful surprises.
