Alert Bay, British Columbia

A smooth night of sailing belied the fact that, while we were all calmly sleeping, National Geographic Sea Bird transited Seymour Narrows, the most notorious stretch of the Inland Passage. This constricted and winding channel has claimed countless ships. Making our way at slack tide, Captain Coughlin expertly piloted us through, and we continued our journey north.

The forest surrounding narrow Johnstone Strait is dominated by western hemlock and Sitka spruce trees. These are the main denizens of the temperate rain forest that covers much of Pacific Northwest, from Washington into Alaska. Shortly after breakfast, we approached Robson Bight where we had a fine look at a black bear foraging above the tide line. Later in the morning, naturalist Lee Moll enriched our understanding of bears with her illustrated presentation. In Blackfish Sound (so named for the killer whales that often patrol these waters) a group of Steller’s sea lions was hauled out, seemingly uninterested in our presence.

The afternoon was dedicated to our visit to Alert Bay, home of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. We visited both the U’mista Cultural Center which houses an extraordinary collection of masks and other artifacts, and the Big House, where we were introduced, through the vehicle of traditional dances, to the rich culture of these welcoming people. Homemade bannock bread and freshly prepared wild caught salmon was a special treat after the dance.