George Island & Inian Islands
The temperate rainforest of Southeast Alaska is famously green. Spruces scratch the sky, alders crowd the beaches, and the forest floor drips with ferns and mosses. But for rich color, nothing matches the waters of Icy Strait and Cross Sound, where the sea is positively verdant. Strong tidal currents stir the sea into a dilute broth of biological productivity, as evidenced by the ocean’s rich emerald color. Such productivity begins with tiny phytoplankton and culminates in a near frenzy of activity, as sea creatures of every size gather to take part in the feast. We spent the day exploring part of this extraordinary region.
We dropped anchor near George Island. This small island, though remote and wild, once hummed with activity. During World War II, soldiers maintained a large gun meant to guard the entrance of Cross Sound from potential Japanese invasion. The gun never spoke in anger, and the island has returned to quietude, but walkers, moving through the forest, saw the gun and the many decayed buildings of those who served it. Kayakers paddled the shore, finding constellations of starfish shining in orange, lavender, crimson and gold. A bold sea arch made for them a satisfying destination. Those in Zodiacs went on to find puffins, otters, and the sound of whales breathing mysteriously through the fog.
Afternoon found us nearby among the Inian Islands. These islands are a major bottleneck in Cross Sound, so tidal currents flow through them with particular ferocity. We dropped Zodiacs and went off to visit a tiny island where hundreds of sea lions haul out. Sea lions ashore are quite a sight. Some, the mighty males, strike poses that seem beyond the reach of legless two thousand pound bags of blubber. But with throaty roars, Kitcheneresque whiskers and a baleful eye, they can appear both elegant and imposing.
The sea lion island writhes with activity. While sea lions love company, they seem unable to enjoy it without constant bickering expressed with much bellowing and caterwauling. And to be downwind of their domestic affairs is a memorable experience.
But it was in the water where the most impressive activity was taking place. The strong current of the incoming tide swept salmon by the hundred past the ‘lions retreat, and the big creatures were out in force to express a hearty welcome. The ‘lions negotiated the powerful current with ease, and regularly rose with fish in their toothy jaws. Sea lions are not dainty, and cannot slice their catch into manageable morsels. Instead, they lash their heads and fling the salmon into bits. Gulls whirl for tidbits, and the splashing makes an impressive show.
Some sea lions, perhaps temporarily full, seemed more interested in us than their normal quarry. They neared our boats, seeming to dare each other into getting just a little nearer. They eyed us with a comical combination of manic playfulness and solemnity. Many of the larger ‘lions, more serious than their juvenile companions, approached, rolled their marble-like eyes and grimaced before sliding beneath the waves.
Elsewhere, the Inians seemed nearly as full of life. We saw delicately plumed puffins, the mighty spouts of whales, and the busy preening and paddling of sea otters.
The Northwest Coast brims with natural, cultural and historical richness. Today, the richness of Cross Sound and Icy Strait seemed the coast’s culmination, and filled our day with extraordinary and memorable experiences.
