Streamside Brown Bear near the Lake Eva Trail
The ABC Islands – Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof – are famous for their bears. Only brown bears are found on these islands, and they may be North America’s oldest. This morning we saw many bears. In Sitkoh Bay, near a salmon stream we found a bear, and approaching, two more. Bears are not particularly social, and the first chased the second off into the forest. The third was along the beach near deeper water, so we approached it.
This bear proved to be very tolerant, so we were able to follow it at close range as it meandered along the water’s edge. Eventually it found its way to a broad tidal flat, where we saw a forth bear. “Our” bear, though small, was either hungry or tough, because it chased off its larger neighbor, then spent some time looking for fish to catch or scavenge. After plenty of “quality time” with these bears, we motored on, and eventually found a fifth bear near the south end of Chichagof.
By afternoon, we were anchored off northern Baranof, and dropped Zodiacs for our first experience with this island. Riding a flood tide, we entered the inner lagoon of the stream flowing from Lake Ava. This stream is packed with salmon, and, as if on cue, another bear was there to greet us! Observing bears by land is significantly different from seeing them by ship, but many of us, with care, were able to walk upstream to see the bear fishing and swimming in the river.
Others, entering the lagoon by kayak, were also able to get very close views of the swimming bear. The salmon also attracted harbor seals, and some kayakers observed them munching fish with evident satisfaction. Meanwhile, back on the trail, walkers were involved in a “swim” through dripping foliage. Once-exotic skunk cabbage, stink currant and hemlock were now familiar friends.
And at last, it felt good to shed our wet clothing and metamorphose into our finery for Captain’s Dinner. Soon, homeward bound, we will have time to reflect on the extraordinary fecundity and richness of Alaska, and all that it has brought us.
