George Island, the Inian Islands, Icy Strait & Cross Sound
Humpback – “the most gamesome and lighthearted of all the whales”
Today we awoke near George Island. This tiny island lies in Cross Sound, facing the open ocean of the Gulf of Alaska. We took Zodiacs ashore to explore. The protected beach of Granite Cove was stitched with tangled strands of giant and bullwhip kelp. These plants are actually some of Alaska’s tallest, growing many scores of feet.
Forests of kelp ring the islands of the outer coast, and are home to a menagerie of sea creatures. The rocks of Granite Cove were also full of life. We found colorful sea stars and sea anemones hidden in tide pools. Kayakers equally enjoyed the intertidal life of George Island, floating by several sidereal species, including the sunflower sea star, which may have two dozen arms!
Moving into the forest, walkers soon found beautiful but very poisonous Amanita mushrooms. Many walkers traversed the saw-toothed terrain of George Island to reach a cliff-side vista of Cross Sound and the outer coast of Glacier Bay National Park. Some went on to a large gun, mounted here in WWII to guard the northern entrance to the Inside Passage from potential Japanese attack.
By afternoon we had gone the short distance to the Inian Islands. These islands block up the otherwise broad passage of Cross Sound and Icy Straight. As tides empty and fill northern Southeast Alaska, here they create currents of particular ferocity. Though occasionally hazardous, these currents stir nutrients to the sunlit surface, where they fertilize the sea to a near frenzy of fecundity.
Sea otters are the smallest of the sea mammals to benefit from the productivity of Cross Sound. We saw several near the ship, busily diving for clams, or industriously preening. At the other end of the scale are whales. We saw humpbacks scattered through the islands. Most were steadily feeding, spouting several times, then lifting their tails in an elegant wave of farewell as they dove to dinner.
Some of us were lucky enough to see whales swimming with sea lions. Sea lions are known to pester whales, and at times it’s clear that the whales don’t appreciate it, but today two different whales seemed to be in a playful mood, and appeared to be actively engaged with the frisky ‘lions.
And ‘lions were the main reason for our visit. Near a small island haul-out, we saw several dozen sea lions swimming in a tight scrum. Juveniles in the water are rather comical. They see best looking down, so they lift their heads and peer, as if through reading glasses, with what appears to be a dubious, disapproving frown. Drooping, diminutive ears add to their silly look. Together, juveniles are shy but curious, and they followed our boats, seeming to dare each other into a closer approach.
Elsewhere we saw sea lions on land. Hauled-out sea lions can also be comical, their limp, intertwining bodies looking like a colossal taffy-making venture gone horribly awry. Though sea lions love company, they cannot enjoy it without constant bickering, enunciated by throaty rumbles. For these are Steller sea lions, for whom “lions” are named. They communicate not with goofy barks, but with a true lion-like roar.
Finding old male sea lions, we saw more leonine attributes. Big males have a thick, mane-like neck and a golden color. Regularly hauled out alone, these battle-scarred veterans often rest with heads lifted high in the air, looking as poised and imperious as the gravest patriarch.
Icy Strait and Cross Sound are spectacular in scenery and biological exuberance. They are, in many ways, the epitome of the Northwest Coast. How lucky we are to have experienced such an extraordinary place!
