Lake Eva & Peril Strait
It was a typical Southeast Alaskan morning: overcast layering of grays… thin cloud veils playing peek-a-boo along the surrounding tree-lined mountains. National Geographic Sea Lion anchored at Hanus Bay off Baranof Island for kayaking the shoreline and hiking the forest along the Lake Eva Trail. As the Zodiacs and kayaks were lowered from the Lido deck, observant eyes discovered one of the island’s inhabitants ambling along the far shore… a large brown bear. Shortly after landing on the beach we were greeted by Park Rangers who surmised this might be the mother of two cubs they’ve seen quite often in this area. Sure enough, within moments the cubs appeared. Quietly watching the ambling foraging of these beautiful creatures became the focus of the morning’s paddling adventures. Various paced hikes along the newly laid out trail of this lovely stretch of Tongass National Forest revealed a rich understory of mosses, ferns, and shrubs. The long walkers spent much of the morning in silence, taking in the vibrancy and magic of the forest. Photo walkers happened upon a Sitka blacktail deer and her fawn.
After lunch while many were relaxing on deck and in their cabins, observant eyes on the bridge found a real treat. “Whale activity off the port-side of the bow.” A humpback whale slapping the water with its side fins 10-20 times, followed by tail fluke down, and… FULL BREACH! The whale disappeared under the water, and we waited and wondered – will there be more? The bow was heavy with silence and anticipation. And then – a burst through the water! Click click click click click. And sighs of joy. Several more breaches, followed by more fin slapping, followed by more breaching, followed by more… it went on for almost an hour.
Pre and post-dinner treats included photos of Naturalist/Photo Instructor Eric Guth’s world glacier explorations, documentary/film of deckhand Brian Christiansen’s kayak/travel adventures in Eastern Asia, plus a preview of our own adventures here in Southeast Alaska shot by Video Chronicler Beau Sylte. Wow – what a wonder-full week. I am in love with this wild place and with the human hearts and souls that are drawn here.
