Glacier Bay National Park
We must have pleased the weather gods, as we were given another opportunity to enjoy the most incredible aspects of Southeast Alaskan weather. As we departed Bartlett Cove this morning, a few stray clouds were strung across the peaks of the Fairweather Mountain Range. We began our trip up-bay, enjoying views of multitudes of humpback whales in Sitakaday Narrows. As we completed breakfast, our two guests for the day Ranger Sarah Betcher and Huna Tlingit Interpreter Faith Grant introduced themselves and prepared us for the journey north.
Our first point of interest was the raucous South Marble Island. Glaucous winged gulls, black legged kittiwakes, and colorful tufted puffins swarmed the air and water around the island’s cliffs. Aromatic Steller sea lions clambered atop one another and greeted us with their groaning. The sun shone on Mount Fairweather itself, as we crossed the main part of the bay to visit Drake Island. On our way, we witnessed a jaeger chasing a small kittiwake. Although both small species, the fight between them was incredible to watch. Feathers flying and aerial acrobatics abounding, the jaeger eventually harassed the kittiwake to the point of giving up its meal. It was a small moment that gave us a taste of the many encounters that occur every day in this rich environment. At the northern side of the island, there were numerous sea otters basking in the early morning light. A great number of them were acting as floating transportation for their fuzzy pups. As we continued to make our way up the western side of the bay, a chance sighting brought us an incredible species to add to our list---killer whales! Two adult male whales were slowly moving southward along the shore. One of them, (the famous T2, who has a dorsal fin that curves over on its top), is a regular visitor to Glacier Bay every summer. Some estimates say that he has been seen in the bay for more than 20 summer seasons! These incredible animals evoke a sense of mystery and menace, but there is no denying their grace and fluidity in the water. It was a special moment for all of us.
In the early afternoon, we navigated through a narrow passage known as Russell Cut, on our way into Tarr Inlet. Amazingly ice-free today, Tarr Inlet has two glaciers at its head: beautiful, blue Margerie, and the glacier that carved Glacier Bay, the Grand Pacific Glacier. We made our way up within a quarter mile of the blue face and enjoyed capturing photos of the colors and shapes in the face. Margerie even treated us to a few wonderful calvings, the sound of which echoed off the walls of the fjord around us!
Back down bay, we assumed our sightings were over. We slowed down alongside Gloomy Knob and saw a lone mountain goat standing in the shade of a rock crevice. As we continued along the shore of the rock dome, a golden colored brown bear was seen foraging in the intertidal zone, in the company of three small cubs! It was a perfect ending to our wildlife explorations of the bay.
We returned to Bartlett Cove after dinner and the dry day became a beautiful dry evening. A golden sunset colored the Fairweathers as we wandered in the forest for a short walk. Beautiful flowers and plants were illuminated by the late afternoon sun.
This phenomenal bay was more than accommodating today, bringing us tremendous variety in wildlife, spectacular weather, and beautiful solitude ashore. Glacier Bay never ceases to amaze.
