Ensanada Grande & Los Islotes, Isla Partida

Our first day aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion saw us anchoring in the aquamarine waters of Ensanada Grande on the north end of Isla Partida. After deploying the ship’s fleet of kayaks, some of us enjoyed the serenity of paddling along weathered volcanic rock formations while others hiked the island along a nearby arroyo. The fin tips of Thurstons devil rays could be seen slicing through the calm water only yards from shore. Those on land learned about Baja’ plants and watched as whiptail lizards scurried over the arroyo bottom. As the sun moved overhead and the temperature steadily rose, we repositioned the ship to Los Islotes for a welcome dip and a highly anticipated encounter.

The small, rocky islet of Los Islotes would be the site of our first snorkeling experience in the Sea of Cortez. Perched high upon boulders, male California sea lions noisily announced their dominance to no one in particular. Deep in sleep, most of the smaller animals seemed less than impressed, but soon became very interested in the strange bipedal animals attempting to invade the ocean realm.

Our masks and fins donned and our wetsuits zipped up, we splashed down from our moored Zodiac. The number of fish making their living around this islet immediately impressed us. Blue-chinned parrot fish were seen scraping algae off the rocks while scores of amberjack hunted one of the thousands of bait fish near the surface. Even brown pelicans were joining the fray by plunge-diving from high above. There were so many animals in such close proximity that it was difficult to pick something to focus on.

On many occasions the fish would part, revealing a sleek and maneuverable sea lion coming in for a closer look at us. The school immediately closed the voids cut by sea lions in such a fluid manner that the concerted motion of the fish exaggerated the graceful movements of the mammal. At times it was difficult to think of the school as a mass of individuals because of the complex dynamics being displayed. With a flick of the tail the school would all change directions, causing their silvery scales to flash for an instant. En mass, it makes for an effective way of breaking up an individual animal’s outline. The shadow of a pelican flying overhead would send a ripple of panic through the school. What a way to live your life being predated on by birds from above and hungry fish below. Good thing they’ve got a little help from a thousand friends to watch their backs.