Day Spent in & around Isla San Marcos

Sunrise found the National Geographic Sea Lion still heading north in the Gulf of California with Isla San Marcos slightly ahead and off her port bow. The heavy winds we had experienced during our previous afternoon and evening had slowly faded. A slight residual swell, coming from the northwest, rolled the NG Sea Lion as she cruised the productive waters around one of the many interesting islands running like a necklace along the eastern side of the Baja peninsula.

At approximately 6:40am the sun rose through clouds off of the port bow, as we continued towards our morning anchorage near the east side of Isla San Marcos. The island is composed of volcanic rocks, covered by ancient marine sediments and capped by lava flows. Early morning light lit up the many interesting rock formations, exposing what looked like a very lush and botanically interesting arroyo.

After breakfast announcements were made, our entire group was organized for walks ashore during the early morning, in an attempt to avoid some of the midday heat. Once on shore we separated and began following the braided set of trails heading for a labyrinth of phenomenally colored rock walls leading into a small canyon; our hopes were climbing a short rock wall, exploring the floor of the arroyo searching out birds and plants, and generally enjoying a desert environment that had been enriched by heavy rainfalls earlier this year!

Whenever we wander in these dry arroyos we are reminded that under our feet there are thousands of seeds waiting for the opportune time and appropriate conditions for a spectacular bloom. Previously this fall and winter, rain had come to Isla San Marcos and all around us was the beauty and richness provided to plants and animals in the form of rain. It had deeply nourished trees, shrubs and ephemeral winter plants. Walking along the floor of the arroyo, our first visual treats were many blossoms on passionflower, sweet bush and morning glory vines. White, yellow and blue flowers were providing a meal for bees and butterflies alike. Stopping often we waited and watched, while many an insect feasted on the flowers of the arroyo.

All too soon hikes were finished and we returned to the waiting NG Sea Lion. Our goal was to have lunch in the cool air of our ship, wait for the afternoon temperatures to drop a little and relocate to the north end of Isla San Marcos for an afternoon of kayaking and snorkeling. After a short siesta many of us returned to the beach in hopes of exploring the underwater world of Isla San Marcos. In cool waters we found several octopi, a fabulous aquarium located in a small inlet where many tropical fish and anemones were so plentiful it was like swimming through an undersea fairy tale! Many of us alternated snorkeling with a paddle in a kayak along the rugged volcanic shore where many birds were making a living from the rich environment created by land and sea.

Our day, from sunrise to sunset had been a visual feast provided on a natural table of a desert island by the sea. So often we had heard this expression and today the Baja peninsula and its decorated islands were a sight to behold. Each unique ecosystem revealed itself again and again. As the day progressed, the winds slowly died allowing our hotel staff to provide a deck barbeque dinner, while cruising under the last light of the day. As we enjoyed our evening meal, birds cruised by, returning to roost for the evening as the sun made its way west, setting over the mountains of the Baja peninsula.

Our Expedition Leader made her customary announcements at the end of dinner on the bridge deck and invited everyone to remain on deck as the day’s light faded into night. There would be star gazing and story telling as our Captain maneuvered the NG Sea Lion into a protected harbor for our evening anchorage. Our day had been rich in the smaller beauties that make up land and sea ... taking our appreciation of this unique corner of the world to a broader sense… it is not just the awe inspiring mega fauna that can catch one’s breath for a second, but the tiniest and most stationary flower, insect or nudibranch can also capture our attention leaving a momentary smile and a lasting impression and appreciation for this place called Baja California, Sur.