Cabo San Lucas, Gorda Bank

Calm seas should always be appreciated when traveling by boat, so our smooth night’s sailing from Bahia Magdalena to the southern tip of the Baja peninsula inspired gratitude all around. We passed the light at Cabo Falso just before first light, and nosed in for a view of the rocks at Land’s End as the sky brightened. During breakfast, the Sea Bird came into the inner harbor and tied up for our morning ashore. With the ship docked in the midst of the busy waterfront, we had several options for activities.

Many in our group decided to immerse themselves in the subtropical waters off of Playa Chilenos and go snorkeling. Although the visibility was slightly diminished, we were able to see a wide variety of fish and marine invertebrates. King angelfish, yellowtail surgeonfish, convict tangs, panamic sergeant majors, Cortez rainbow wrasses and many others schooled around our brightly colored fins and mask-covered faces.

Everyone else opted to explore on land. A small contingent of birdwatchers hiked a trail outside of town. Bird sightings included a loggerhead shrike, red-tailed hawk, Costa’s hummingbird, Scott’s oriole and house finches. In between bird sightings, colorful butterflies and flowering desert plants captured the hikers’ attention. Our final group of explorers hit the town. Some visited selected galleries and shops with Adrian, while the rest ventured out on their own. Shoppers returned with silver and pottery, clothing and tequila.

Underway after lunch, we headed east and north into the Sea of Cortez. Late in the afternoon we reached the seamounts known as Gorda Bank, and found several groups of humpback whales. We were treated to a very close approach by a cow with her calf, traveling with a second adult. Standing quietly on deck, we were able to hear their powerful exhalation followed immediately by an immense inhalation. As we moved away from the mother-calf group, we encountered a gathering of adult whales, and decided to have a listen. Taking the ship’s hydrophone away from the Sea Bird via Zodiac, we were able to hear the singing of several male humpbacks and actually transmit the song, in real time, back to the ship’s P.A. system. It was such a treat to listen in on their underwater world, and then be able to watch their activity at the surface.

Another beautiful sunset, and the promise of a smooth ride north ended this fine day in Baja California.