Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida

A clear morning and a stiff breeze greeted us as we made our way towards Los Islotes, a set of pinnacles and towering walls that rise abruptly from a pounding sea. Tons of water are thrown violently against its reddish hulk as winds from the north drive the sea southward. The rocks are made of a volcanic tuff that was formed when hot ash landed after exploding out of volcanos. Much of this airborne debris was so hot that crystals grew into adjacent pieces and welded the mass together. Its fiery past helps to explain why it is so resistant to erosion and can offer a protected lee for California sea lions.

Captain Graves skillfully maneuvered our ship in close to the rocks for views of barking “lobos marinas”. As many as 340 of these eared seals use this haul out annually, and 60 to 70 pups are produced each summer. Some of the youngsters we saw have not yet been weaned and may suckle for a year or more. Their habituation to boat traffic from La Paz makes them quite tolerant and easy to view, even from the decks of our little ship.

Later in the morning our interests were consumed by a spectacular canyon at the head of a bay named Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida. We walked along a beautiful beach, wound through large boulders, and explored the drought tolerant plants that seem to be immersed in dryness. The private land on this island group was recently purchased by the Nature Conservancy, World Wildlife Fund, and other conservation groups to increase its protection status. After returning from the hike we were whisked away and taken to another beach for kayak excursions. The beige cliffs that surrounded us had rounded contours and crusty tops that were fun to paddle by.

After lunch we explored the world below the ocean’s surface. A Zodiac was anchored, fitted with a ladder, and transformed into our launching pad for sea-floor exploration. What an easy way to enter another world! Ka-splash, gurgle, blub, and then the elegant coral and sergeant majors were in view. Cortez and king angelfish are some of the more memorable, but blue and gold snappers, sunset wrasses, and immature damselfish must also be added to a list of, “awesome fish I saw”. A slide lecture and dinner followed. One could say that the day was packed. One guest was overheard saying that she already had enough experiences to justify the week!