Icy Straits
May white be the theme of the day.
While this week has afforded us amazing animal encounters and vistas worthy of any postcard, the scene this evening, while not as visually dramatic, revealed the more subtle side of Alaska. Staring off into the unusually calm waters of Icy Strait, only the spiky tops of coniferous shorelines were visible through the fog. Temporarily engrossed in this milky stillness, I was brought back to reality by the sudden blow of a nearby humpback. Far enough into the whiteness to be out of sight, I realized we were still surrounded by all the stunning scenery we had seen of Southeast Alaska so far; it was just temporarily veiled - all but the soundtrack, that is. With only the sound of invisible whales and the gentle splash of water on the hull, I was in a world all too familiar to the locals of this area.
The community of Elfin Cove can surely attest to this supreme tranquility. Situated on the northwest corner of Chichigof Island, just south of Icy Straight, Elfin Cove is home to no more than 15 year-round residents who have made their living from the cold waters of Southeast Alaska since the 1930’s. Protected from Pacific ocean swells to the west by Chichigof and George Islands, this quiet little hamlet exemplifies the potential trade-offs of living year-round in Alaska. On the one hand, there is the incredible solitude we experienced today walking around the town via its lazy boardwalk, while on the other, there is the realization that the winters are long, dark, cold, and isolated.
People, as well as history, seem to endure these exceptional winters, however. We came across one such historical remnant today on our hike over George Island. It was an abandoned U.S. military cannon, still facing west as it did 60+ years ago to ward off potential Japanese attacks. While an attack on this isolated area was unlikely, Chichigof Islanders can still claim a part in WWII history.
Surrounded by kelp gardens, with beautiful stones under foot on the beach, the morning was spent in hikes, kayaks, and Zodiacs. With a white sky transitioning into hazy shorelines and ending in greyish colored water, it may seem like we had a drab day. Any photograph would suggest the same. It takes being here, however, standing in the damp stillness, smelling the color green, and trying to follow the hidden sounds to realize this day is alive as any other. Even more so, perhaps, if you can tune into what is beyond the clouds.
May white be the theme of the day.
While this week has afforded us amazing animal encounters and vistas worthy of any postcard, the scene this evening, while not as visually dramatic, revealed the more subtle side of Alaska. Staring off into the unusually calm waters of Icy Strait, only the spiky tops of coniferous shorelines were visible through the fog. Temporarily engrossed in this milky stillness, I was brought back to reality by the sudden blow of a nearby humpback. Far enough into the whiteness to be out of sight, I realized we were still surrounded by all the stunning scenery we had seen of Southeast Alaska so far; it was just temporarily veiled - all but the soundtrack, that is. With only the sound of invisible whales and the gentle splash of water on the hull, I was in a world all too familiar to the locals of this area.
The community of Elfin Cove can surely attest to this supreme tranquility. Situated on the northwest corner of Chichigof Island, just south of Icy Straight, Elfin Cove is home to no more than 15 year-round residents who have made their living from the cold waters of Southeast Alaska since the 1930’s. Protected from Pacific ocean swells to the west by Chichigof and George Islands, this quiet little hamlet exemplifies the potential trade-offs of living year-round in Alaska. On the one hand, there is the incredible solitude we experienced today walking around the town via its lazy boardwalk, while on the other, there is the realization that the winters are long, dark, cold, and isolated.
People, as well as history, seem to endure these exceptional winters, however. We came across one such historical remnant today on our hike over George Island. It was an abandoned U.S. military cannon, still facing west as it did 60+ years ago to ward off potential Japanese attacks. While an attack on this isolated area was unlikely, Chichigof Islanders can still claim a part in WWII history.
Surrounded by kelp gardens, with beautiful stones under foot on the beach, the morning was spent in hikes, kayaks, and Zodiacs. With a white sky transitioning into hazy shorelines and ending in greyish colored water, it may seem like we had a drab day. Any photograph would suggest the same. It takes being here, however, standing in the damp stillness, smelling the color green, and trying to follow the hidden sounds to realize this day is alive as any other. Even more so, perhaps, if you can tune into what is beyond the clouds.
