Magdalena Bay

At anchor inside the lee of the dunes of Isla Magdalena, the current of the incoming tide roiled along the hull of the M/V Sea Lion. Just before the sun rose, we set out for a hike in the dunes and out into the bay in search of whales. Despite the stiff breeze working against the tide, spirits were high. Over the sound of the surf, laughter could be heard across the bay. Some of the mother and calf pairs from the previous day were found moving in the relative calm of the lagoon, and lent a depth to our understanding of how gray whales make use of such a wild environment. Even with a good chop, the lagoons offered a level of protection that was impossible in the open Pacific. In preparation for migration, females bonded with and exercised their calves.

Out on the open dunes, grain by grain development of the flexible barrier was witnessed. Sailing across such expanses, sand deposited on the ocean side settled temporarily into beautiful parallel patterns or continued on into the opaque lagoons. Swept by tides some of this sand formed wide flats or escaped back into the Pacific to start the cycle again. Dynamic geology, as usual, formed a basis for habitat. In some places along the shore of the lagoons, water, slowed by the roots of uniquely adapted plants, dropped its mineral load.

In the afternoon, deep in the channels of mangrove, we explored this unique environment that helped stabilize some of the dunes while providing habitat for invertebrates, fish, birds and mammals. Nourished by a steady supply of falling leaves and protected by a thick canopy and sprawling roots, the future fisherman's catch found a haven. Despite the fact that most of the mangrove species were not closely related, they had evolved novel ways of thriving in an environment generally hostile to flowering plants. By kayak or Zodiac, the intimate corridors of lush green leaves and the dark roots of low tide were inviting. Tunicates, sponges and oysters colonized the sub-tidal zones. Little green herons skulked in the roots. Mullet and stingrays cruised the deeper channels. An immature bald eagle soared well above the canopy.

At the Captain's farewell dinner and cocktail hour we had the opportunity to celebrate and share our experience of this biodiversity, through art, poetry and laughter.