Los Islotes and Punta Dispensa, Isla Espiritu Santo
New Year’s morning greeted early risers on the Sea Lion with a bank of clouds washed in deep crimson along the horizon as we rounded the north end of Isla Partida. The last day of our expedition is the first day of our new year, and we were headed for an intimate encounter with sea lions.
The sea lions’ rookery is on Los Islotes. These sharp rocks rise from the sea in barren beauty. Stained white from guano, they are also a favored roost for sea birds, especially boobies and gulls. Along the 100-foot crest of tiny islands, blue-footed boobies raised their bright feet and stretched their necks in early courtship displays. Magnificent frigatebirds rose into the warm winds of the morning and circled us as we gathered in Zodiacs to snorkel with the sea lions. When we splashed into the water, the sea lions initiated encounters that left snorkelers thrilled. Cumbersome on the rocks, these pinnipeds seemed to revel in their skill and power as swimmers. They approached close to our masks, their noses almost touching. They rocketed past our faces, turned suddenly, and swam so close they often brushed us with flippers, fur and even whiskers. It was clear that these creatures delighted in their marine lives. We were partners in encounters that the animals themselves clearly controlled.
We enjoyed our last afternoon in the Gulf of California at Punta Dispensa, a superb stretch of white sand at the southern end of Isla Espiritu Santo. Some of us hiked to the heights for lingering looks at the wonderful view. Others looked for birds. Still others kayaked the rolling waves in the turquoise water of the bay. For all of us it was a sweet, slow end of the day, as the warm sun set on our New Year’s expedition in Baja California.
New Year’s morning greeted early risers on the Sea Lion with a bank of clouds washed in deep crimson along the horizon as we rounded the north end of Isla Partida. The last day of our expedition is the first day of our new year, and we were headed for an intimate encounter with sea lions.
The sea lions’ rookery is on Los Islotes. These sharp rocks rise from the sea in barren beauty. Stained white from guano, they are also a favored roost for sea birds, especially boobies and gulls. Along the 100-foot crest of tiny islands, blue-footed boobies raised their bright feet and stretched their necks in early courtship displays. Magnificent frigatebirds rose into the warm winds of the morning and circled us as we gathered in Zodiacs to snorkel with the sea lions. When we splashed into the water, the sea lions initiated encounters that left snorkelers thrilled. Cumbersome on the rocks, these pinnipeds seemed to revel in their skill and power as swimmers. They approached close to our masks, their noses almost touching. They rocketed past our faces, turned suddenly, and swam so close they often brushed us with flippers, fur and even whiskers. It was clear that these creatures delighted in their marine lives. We were partners in encounters that the animals themselves clearly controlled.
We enjoyed our last afternoon in the Gulf of California at Punta Dispensa, a superb stretch of white sand at the southern end of Isla Espiritu Santo. Some of us hiked to the heights for lingering looks at the wonderful view. Others looked for birds. Still others kayaked the rolling waves in the turquoise water of the bay. For all of us it was a sweet, slow end of the day, as the warm sun set on our New Year’s expedition in Baja California.



