San Ignacio Lagoon, Baja

After a pre-dawn breakfast, we boarded our vans and headed across the Baja peninsula to the lagoon of San Ignacio on the west coast. En route, we passed near the ‘Tres Virgenes’ Volcanoes, which last erupted around 1746, yet the area was so desolate that it looked like it happened yesterday. The road was called “el salto al infierno” which means “the jump to hell.” Fitting for the lava strewn landscape.

We stopped at the oasis of San Ignacio for refreshments. It was quite a surprise to find fresh water ponds with Pied-billed grebes, Coots and Snowy Egret, all surrounded by date palms. After the most delicious fresh squeezed orange juice, we continued off across the desert, leaving the main road behind. We all faced a lumpy ride across the plains to the lagoons. It was as pleasant as visiting the dentist!

Well, the lagoons were indeed rich with life and worth the trip. We got into the local boats known as “pangas,” (stable, fiberglass boats) and headed out to the Gray whale viewing area. Most of the enormous lagoon is a sanctuary and thus restricted to boat traffic. As we motored, we saw large flocks of Brant geese waiting for the tide to recede so they could feed on the large expanses of eel grass, Royal terns squawking and spiraling and wheeling overhead, Pomarine jaegers with determination in their wing beats, and large clouds of Godwits, Curlews, Dowitchers and other sandpipers. Out of nowhere a Peregrine pierced the flock hoping to catch lunch.

We were here for whales, and the whales were here. The thirty foot “moms” and their calves were scattered over the bay. It was a gentle time for us all; the whales slowly cruising and blowing with their week old young close to their bodies, and us puttering quietly alongside. The crew of the Sea Lion had brought a super picnic lunch that was enjoyed by all after we returned to the beach. We all had plenty of stories to share on the return trip to the ship.