Northern Isabela and Fernandina Islands

I was walking back to the lounge at 6:00 a.m to make the optional early morning wake-up call, when I realized first officer Carlos already had a pod of a couple hundred or so common dolphins off the bow of the Islander!! As some of our guests commented, it was an exciting way to wake-up, with dolphins leaping and splashing all around the ship. We stayed with them for 45 minutes, and as we returned to our course, we spotted a strong, slanted spout. We could see the whale logging on the surface, far ahead. Then he dove straight down, with his fluke lifted high out of the water. Even from a distance there was no doubt about what species of whale we were seeing - a sperm. A second and third sperm whale spouted and they too sounded, still far ahead of us. We knew it would not be worth our while to wait for them to return to the surface, as sperm whales, the largest of the toothed whales, dive to great depths (up to a mile) and remain submerged longer (an hour or more) than any other whale species. What a thrill to have seen these spectacular marine mammals, even at a distance from the ship!

During the morning Zodiac ride off of Punta Vicente Roca, we found courting flightless cormorants, huge displaying marine iguanas, mating sea turtles and the pelagic sunfish, mola mola. A group of our guests, led by Naturalist Ernesto, loaded our bright yellow sea kayaks and explored the coast. They entered the lava tuff cave, and paddled right up along side turtles, cormorants, penguins and sea lions.

Lunch today was especially “sabrosa;” a traditional Ecuadorian buffet with delicious dishes from the coast and the sierra. A siesta was definitely on the agenda following this superb meal. At 3:00 p.m., we set off in the Zodiacs to look for penguins among the lava pools off Punta Espinosa, Fernandina Island. We disembarked on a ropey, black and barren pahoehoe lava flow and strolled among piles of marine iguanas and quick, dark lava lizards. The flightless cormorants nesting on the point had young chicks in their seaweed nests. We took countless photos and registered many golden moments and memories in our brain cells. We have had a full and unforgettable day in the rich and pristine western realm of the enchanted archipelago of Galápagos. What can we possibly show our guests tomorrow that can equal or top today?