Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida and Los Islotes, Baja

The golden glow of our beach campfire kept us warm as the sunset painted pastels on La Giganta Mountains on the peninsula behind the ship. We were looking west from the same bay where we had anchored at dawn, yet it looked totally different only 12 hours later. As we finished our barbecue dinners and relaxed, we thought back to the sea lions we saw at Los Islotes. Even though our beach chairs were wonderful, those sea lions made the carved rocky shelves in the volcanic tuff look like the most comfortable beds of all.

Our morning hikes and sea kayaking from Ensenada Grande began a little earlier than usual to take advantage of the higher tide. The morning sun highlighted the shades and shapes of the volcanic tuff (welded ash) formations of this island. As we explored this scenic arroyo by foot, we found desert plants in bloom, had glimpses of the antelope ground squirrel and also saw proof of the presence of the endemic black jackrabbit. Cactus spines and bitter, sap-filled bark were not enough to deter these herbivores.

We spent late morning and early afternoon at Los Islotes, the small islets just north of Isla Partida. These steep volcanic rocks provide nesting sites for sea birds and a haul out and rookery for California sea lions. The playful nature of the sea lions (and loud barks) captured our attention as we cruised beside them in zodiacs. Those of us who wanted yet another way to see these animals, donned snorkel gear and joined them in their environment. What a treat that was! Playful as dogs and seemingly thrilled with our company, they twirled and dove and gracefully “flew” through the water using their front flippers for propulsion.

Looking at things from many different angles, under different conditions and at different times of day can give one a richer understanding of a place. Today we explored by foot, kayak, Zodiac and from the water itself. Although our day was full and busy, getting to know many sides of one place was perhaps our best accomplishment.