Sea Lions off Los Islotes
We anchored before dawn at the north end of Bahia La Paz, off Los Islotes, or “the Islets.” Soon the intrepid were aboard Zodiacs, hoping for the sublime sunrise shot or images in warm low-angle light. Los Islotes are a very picturesque pile of rocks. Rough weather and the swells of a thousand storms have sculpted volcanic tuff into forms that inspire notions of ramparts, towers, grottos and crenulated castles. Though remote, Los Islotes are in no way deserted. We saw frigatebirds with dagger tails, gulls with golden feet, and boobies. But best of all were the sea lions.Scores of the beasts lay about the rocks, most seemingly boneless in relaxation. They draped the rocks in clusters, looking like piles of dirty laundry or half-melted caramels. Sea lions come in a variety of hues. Juveniles are bitter chocolate, adult males have sugar-frosted foreheads, and elderly females are a delicious shade of butter pecan. Though thigmotactic, or fond of playing pile-on, every sea lion seems ready for a brawl or caterwaul anytime another attempts to walk across its head or to nap on its hind end, which is most of the time. Thus the islands echo with ceaseless bellowing, roaring and barking. What a lot of fun!
After enjoying the ‘lions by Zodiac, many decided to join them in the water. Donning snorkeling gear, we were soon paddling about the rocks. Though ungainly on land, sea lions are extraordinarily graceful by sea. They corkscrew, soar and pirouette like a uniquely engaging combination of ballerina and puppy dog. The young sea lions really seem to think us brightly colored moving toys ‘specially shipped in for their entertainment, and were soon vrooming and rocketing amongst us. Swimming with sea lions made some of us seem almost in need of a medivac for that rare condition – a plethora of ebullient hilarity! One sea lion, perhaps exhausted by the fun but still wanting company, leapt up to sit on several of our Zodiacs. This pretty creature eyed us for a while with nonchalance before jumping off to join her aquatic friends.
Leaving Los Islotes, we encountered a large group of bottle-nosed dolphins. We had more great fun watching them bow ride or leaping ships’ wakes. Then the blue whales appeared. We watched a cow and calf surface several times before moving off to our afternoon’s anchorage.
Ashore on Isla Partida, we had an introduction to the unique vegetation of the southern Sonoran Desert. Here cacti and their ilk show an extraordinary range of adaptations to a harsh environment. We saw antelope ground squirrels and the workings of packrats and the island’s endemic melanistic black-tailed jackrabbit. Some kayaked azure waters by strawberry spongecake cliffs.
Lastly, we adjourned to a pocket beach for a barbeque dinner, as sunset washed the canyon walls in gold.
We anchored before dawn at the north end of Bahia La Paz, off Los Islotes, or “the Islets.” Soon the intrepid were aboard Zodiacs, hoping for the sublime sunrise shot or images in warm low-angle light. Los Islotes are a very picturesque pile of rocks. Rough weather and the swells of a thousand storms have sculpted volcanic tuff into forms that inspire notions of ramparts, towers, grottos and crenulated castles. Though remote, Los Islotes are in no way deserted. We saw frigatebirds with dagger tails, gulls with golden feet, and boobies. But best of all were the sea lions.
After enjoying the ‘lions by Zodiac, many decided to join them in the water. Donning snorkeling gear, we were soon paddling about the rocks. Though ungainly on land, sea lions are extraordinarily graceful by sea. They corkscrew, soar and pirouette like a uniquely engaging combination of ballerina and puppy dog. The young sea lions really seem to think us brightly colored moving toys ‘specially shipped in for their entertainment, and were soon vrooming and rocketing amongst us. Swimming with sea lions made some of us seem almost in need of a medivac for that rare condition – a plethora of ebullient hilarity! One sea lion, perhaps exhausted by the fun but still wanting company, leapt up to sit on several of our Zodiacs. This pretty creature eyed us for a while with nonchalance before jumping off to join her aquatic friends.
Leaving Los Islotes, we encountered a large group of bottle-nosed dolphins. We had more great fun watching them bow ride or leaping ships’ wakes. Then the blue whales appeared. We watched a cow and calf surface several times before moving off to our afternoon’s anchorage.
Ashore on Isla Partida, we had an introduction to the unique vegetation of the southern Sonoran Desert. Here cacti and their ilk show an extraordinary range of adaptations to a harsh environment. We saw antelope ground squirrels and the workings of packrats and the island’s endemic melanistic black-tailed jackrabbit. Some kayaked azure waters by strawberry spongecake cliffs.
Lastly, we adjourned to a pocket beach for a barbeque dinner, as sunset washed the canyon walls in gold.
