Captain George Vancouver RN was wrong! All aboard Sea Lion agreed that the word “desolation” was totally inapplicable to the region we experienced today.
Sunrise this morning found us threading our southerly passage through the maze of forested islands, sheltered coves and rocky, bird-covered islets that together, carry the name Desolation Sound. To justify the name that Vancouver inked onto his chart, he had written “This area afforded not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye, the smallest recreation on shore, no animal or vegetable food…” We beg to differ! In our view, far more appropriate would have been “Fascination” or “Enchantment”.
In these waters, in the summer of 1792, Vancouver’s two ships sailed in company with two survey vessels from England’s rival maritime power, Spain. The two exploring expeditions each formed a deep respect for the other’s work. They exchanged detailed information about their charts and findings, and enjoyed one another’s company.
We paused at the head of Teakerne Arm – a lateral fiord east from the channel separating Cortes and Redonda islands - to enjoy the scenery, from Zodiacs, paddling kayaks and stretching shore legs on hikes. There, in Cascade Cove, we found the “beautifull Waterfall which issued from a lake [Cassel] close behind it & precipitates a wide foaming stream into the Sea, about 30 yards high.” These were the words of Archibald Menzies, the naturalist on Vancouver’s team.
Later we explored the Prideaux Haven – by now happily devoid of the mid-summer fleets of pleasure craft – again, by kayak and Zodiac. We made sure to return to the Sea Lion in good time to prepare for Captain Jeff Kalbach’s farewell cocktail and dinner – a fitting finale to a wonderful expedition in one of the world’s most scenic areas.
