When Lewis and Clark arrived on the Pacific coast in fall 1805, they faced nearly unceasing rain and high winds. But the guests, crew, and staff of the Sea Lion enjoyed brilliant, warm sunshine for the final full day of our voyage, making our visit to the mouth of the Columbia River all the more enjoyable.
Our ship docked in Astoria, Oregon, just before sunrise. Right after breakfast, we gathered in the lounge for a review of the Lewis and Clark expedition's final approach to the ocean. The Corps of Discovery spent several weeks on the southwest coast of Washington state trying to find a suitable camp, but it soon became clear conditions would probably be better on the Oregon side. Fort Clatsop was the expedition's home from early December 1805 through March 23, 1806. We visited Fort Clatsop National Memorial near Astoria, where we learned more about how the party spent its long, wet winter on the Oregon coast. Highlights included views of two massive Sitka spruce trees that were probably seedlings when the expedition visited; a stop at a replica of the fort, built by local volunteers in 1955; and a forest stroll to the canoe landing on what's now called the Lewis and Clark River.
Astoria has a proud seafaring heritage, and our morning itinerary also included a stop at the excellent Columbia River Maritime Museum. Here, our docent shared tales of Captain Cook, of bells and lights, and of Astoria's past as a boat-building and cannery center. We had time to wander the museum on our own and see exhibits on such topics as the U.S. Coast Guard's National Motor Lifeboat School, held at nearby Cape Disappointment because the surf and weather conditions on the Columbia River Bar (where the river meets the ocean) are "consistently the worst in the United States." We marveled again at our good weather fortune and the fact Lewis and Clark made it through this area unscathed ... even with their small, decidedly un-seaworthy dugout canoes.
After lunch back on the Sea Lion , we traveled to the Astoria Column, a hilltop landmark that pays tribute to the spirit of exploration. Many of us climbed the 164-step spiral staircase to the top, where we thrilled to 360-degree views of the town of Astoria, the 4-mile long Astoria-Megler Bridge, the Columbia River Bar, and even distant Mount Rainier. Afterward, some Sea Lion guests went on to view the Pacific Ocean at Fort Stevens State Park - site of the 1906 wreck of the Peter Iredale. Others spent some more time at the Maritime Museum or simply strolling through picturesque Astoria.
As the day wound down, we gathered back at the ship for our final happy hour, featuring the first-ever Sea Lion art show, an exhibition of artwork and photography created during the trip by art guide Stuart Morse and about two dozen guests. The Captain’s farewell dinner took on an extra-festive air with seasonal decor and servers in Halloween costume. It was a fun, fitting finish to our time together on the Sea Lion.
