Today was a truly Antarctic day in which we experienced two of the many, in this case opposite, faces of humankind. Antarctica was the last continent to be discovered and yet, in a very short period of time we managed to have a profound impact on its environment. During the morning, we visited an island and harbor that were used in the not-so-distant past by whalers as a base for processing their catch. Thousands of whales were slaughtered in the area and many blue whale skulls and other bones remain on the beach to remind us of those times. In the afternoon, the opposite side of our interaction with these gentle giants took place. We had a glorious few hours floating in our Zodiacs while some 60 humpback whales fed so close to us that we could smell them! Two sides of the same history came together to show us how we can actually change, learn from our mistakes, and make a difference.