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Expedition Stories
Our fleet navigates the world in search of adventure. These are the stories they bring back…
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4/21/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Easter Island, Chile Ahu Tahai, Vinapu, Orongo, Ahu Akivi, Puna Pau, Ahu Tongariki, Rano Raraku and Anakena, Rapa Nui. Sounds exotic doesn’t it? It is. Locals call it Te Pito o Te Henua, ‘The Navel of the World,’ and for people who live 1900 km from tiny Pitcairn Island, 3700 km from mainland Chile and 3200 km from the Marquesas, it is. Isolated and shrouded in mystery, Easter Island is, in a word, extraordinary. Where else can you find over 1000 bizarre gigantic multi-ton statues (called moai) carved from a steep volcano and hauled all over an island in the middle of nowhere? Why did they add the hats or ‘top knots’ to the statues? How did they erect these monoliths and why did they continue to get bigger and bigger, until the last one carved at the quarry was almost 70 feet long? Imagine a place where the local clans were periodically at war and toppled these massive statues; where sacrifices and worship took place at the altars (or ahu); where Captain Cook landed in 1774 and found the locals at peace even though some of the statues were toppled; where little is known about how the population collapsed (or when it started); where tropical breezes continuously bathe the island. Imagine a place so peaceful, that at night you can hear the stars. We had three wonderful days to enjoy and explore the archaeological sites, three days filled with stories and mystery. Three days to meet and enjoy the local people and their island home. Then one morning, from our seaside hotels in Hanga Roa (the tiny capital town on Easter Island), in sailed the National Geographic Endeavour , our home away from home for the next 15 days. We are at sea today sailing for the Pitcairn Island group. Here we go!
4/23/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Throughout the night the National Geographic Endeavour made steady progress on an westerly course towards our journey’s first call at Ducie Atoll in the Pitcairn group. Our night’s passage was far from uneventful. In the day’s early hours the pitching and rolling of the ship began to increase, a potential harbinger of the climatologic conditions to come. By morning, the Endeavour found herself in the middle of a localized low pressure cell. The sky was a uniform dark gray. All around us were curtains of thick rain, curved and stretched by mounting strong winds. On final approach to Ducie Atoll she was smack amid a maelstrom. Steady fifty knot winds whipped the surrounding seas into an angry boil of 2-3 meter, confused swells and horizontally-blown spray. Capt. Lampe approached Ducie from the northeast, skirting the atoll’s largest island, Acadia. It is along Acadia’s north shore that the two known passages through the outer reef to the sandy beach could be approached and hopefully navigated by Zodiac. Within close visual range it was clear that both passages were presently guarded by dangerous breakers, which precluded any attempt at making a landing. Even the notion of leaving the ship for water-born activities was readily laid to rest by the inclement conditions. Expedition Leader Tom Ritchie came over the ship’s PA system to inform us of alternate morning plans. Capt. Lampe would take the Endeavour and circumnavigate Ducie Atoll as close to the reef’s outer edge as safety would permit. This gave all of us an opportunity to view the atoll’s makeup, its patchwork of islands, mighty seaward breakers, and the inner lagoon with some degree of intimacy. The real upshot however was the opportunity to examine the seabird multitudes that swirled around the atoll. Kermadec and Murphy’s petrels, White terns, and Masked boobies among others soared overhead, perched on branches of the islands’ low vegetation, and dipped in and out of the troughs of the mounting swells with a grace and acumen born from generations of life amid an aquatic medium. Brent Houston and Larry Hobbs were on the bridge helping many of us sort through some of the minutia of seabird identification. Others wiled away the time gazing out the windows of the Endeavor’s public spaces, content to serenely observe the spectacle that was not only before us, but all around us. Shortly before lunch Larry Hobbs gave a lecture on cetaceans, disseminating some of the more salient aspects of their physiology and taxonomy. He gave extra attention to the species we were likely to encounter as our voyage continued. By lunchtime the threatening skies had begun to lighten and the rain had become sporadic, but the seas remained a torrent of confused and angry swells. Tom Ritchie made the wise move of calling off a second landing attempt on Ducie Atoll, and informed us all that we would proceed directly to Henderson Island. The afternoon would be at sea and our leisure. For entertainment the onus would fall upon the staff and their collective resourcefulness. In the lounge the first episode of Blue Planet, narrated by Sir David Attenborough, was presented for all interested. More than a few years after its first showing as a natural history production, it has lost none of its luster or storytelling power. It stands as a cinema graphic triumph. Claudio Costino rounded out the day’s educational program with a recounting of the peopling of Polynesia. His extensive research throughout the waters we were presently traveling coupled with his educational background lent academic weight to a controversial and debatable subject. Our evening was graced (or plagued) by some of the same conditions that swept the previous night into the light of morning.
4/25/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Pitcairn Island We arrived early to Pitcairn Island this morning. The ship sailed by Bounty Bay on the island's Northeastern side but it was too windy and the swell made it an impossible point for any activities. We anchored on the island's Northwestern side during breakfast. You could feel the nervousness creeping up as so many of our guests had this landing as one of the absolute highlights on the voyage. Our Expedition Leader Tom arranged for the longboats to come out and pick us up as they would give us a drier ride than the Zodiacs. They definitely gave us the true feeling about landing at Pitcairn, and how lucky we were to be able to do it. Once ashore, a steep road up led us through amazing flowers and banana plants. Some got a ride with the quad-bikes. At the top we all wondered off freely. A fascinating museum with remains from the Bounty, a church and a small local market were at the top. Beautifully hand carved wood sculptures and local honey were to be found. The anchor of the Bounty was attached to the fence and quite a few pictures were taken. Some people rented a guide and took off on the quad-bikes to get to the look-out points on the island. The bikes went through thick vegetation on roads that did not seem to exist. Superb views were to be seen from higher grounds. The waves were crashing onto the rocks and the tropic birds hovered down in the gulleys. Some people came back for lunch and to enjoy a relaxing afternoon onboard. A good selection of local handy-crafts was found in the lounge for those who had saved themselves from the temptations on the island. The view of Pitcairn Island was great from the ship and you could really picture the Bounty lying for anchor in the Bay. The weather conditions for snorkeling were too rough but the divers were able to dive. We got geared up in the Zodiac whilst we were bobbing about in large swell. We dropped down in crystal clear water to 20 meters and the swell gently rocked us back and forth together with the fish. A hump-head parrotfish passed by and so did a unicorn fish. A nudibranch slowly made its way across a coral. When we reached the surface the wind had picked up and the swell had increased. We got back to the Endeavour just as the last longboat came from the island and the ship got ready to sail towards that magic horizon.
4/27/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Today, we officially entered the Tropics and visited the Gambier Archipelago, a small group of islands located off the southeast terminus of the Tuamotus. The entire archipelago, which consists of 16 volcanic and coralline islands, is surrounded by an enormous barrier coral reef, which is broken by only three passages that allow access to the interior lagoon. The main island, Mangareva, is an impressive volcanic island which rises to 441 meters (1,455 feet) above sea level. It has been estimated that the Gambier Islands may have had a population of 9,000 people in prehistoric times and they had a complex trading system that included some of the other islands we have already visited, e.g. Pitcairn and Henderson. However, archeological evidence has shown that this trade network broke down in the 15th century and the Gambier Islanders essentially became isolated. The modern history of the island group begins in 1834, when Father Honore Laval and two compatriots from the Pictus Society of the Order of the Sacred Heart monastery in Valparaiso arrived at Mangareva to proselytize the locals. Amazingly, their coming had been predicted by the previous king, so they were welcomed with great ceremony and had a relatively easy time converting the indigenes to Christianity and gaining control. What followed, according to historian Clifford Gessler, was “the death of a people.” Father Laval essentially became their new leader, and he quickly saw to the destruction of all the stone images of the ancient gods and the temple platforms. He then set about constructing a modern European-styled city, the likes of which the Polynesians had never seen. The locals were put to work building a great cathedral out of blocks of coral and other local materials. It took nine years to build and could accommodate 1,200 people. They also built a palace for the king, a monastery, a convent, a prison, a textile factory, coastal watchtowers, and a chapel on the site of every pagan altar. The death rate among the local populace soared and the birthrate plummeted during this period. By the time Father Laval was recalled to Tahiti for his excesses, the population had dropped to just 500 people. He was unrepentant regarding the effect his 37 years of leadership had upon the Gambier Islanders and responded that “…they have but gone more quickly to heaven." Right after breakfast, we landed on Mangareva Island at Rikitea, the only town in the archipelago, and made an easy walk over to visit Father Laval’s great legacy…the Cathedral of St Michael. It is now in the process of being restored to its former glory. Everyone was especially impressed by the ornate altar decorations of pearl shells. The windy situation made for delightful conditions on shore and most of us continued walking up the main road to visit King Te Maputeoa’s Tomb, as well as the ruins of the Convent and its chapel. Others visited the town spread out along the shoreline. The views Mt. Duff behind the town at the south end of the island and the vistas out over the huge lagoon were magnificent. Most of the trees and vegetation have been introduced to the island, but the island is green and lush and truly a tropical paradise.
4/29/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Ravahere Atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia This morning we arrived at Ravahere, an uninhabited atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago. We spent the entire day simply enjoying the great Pacific Ocean as it washed on and off the coral reef. We had opportunities for diving and snorkeling in the morning and again in the afternoon. One of the most popular ways to get close to the undersea world was aboard our brand new glass-bottom boat which was brought aboard the National Geographic Endeavour for the first time at the beginning of this voyage. The boat, of our own design, carries 12 guests seated around the glass-bottomed well and everyone had a terrific view of the world beneath us as we sailed along the reef edge. The reef here at Ravahere drops precipitously to 4000 meters within a couple of miles of the atoll, so we were able to view a range of depths in the incredibly clear water. One effect that was very obvious was the absorption of the long wavelengths of light as it penetrates beyond the very surface layer. Corals and fish which were brilliantly colored in a rainbow of hues in shallow water were all subtle shades of blue at depth. The ability to enjoy the ocean world at close range in so many ways assured that everyone aboard the National Geographic Endeavour had an opportunity to experience a personal connection with this vast expanse of water which covers one-third of our planet, certainly an essential part of this voyage to the South Seas.
5/1/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Fakarava Atoll, French Polynesia Happy May Day from the South Pacific! Another glorious day in paradise for all of us aboard the good ship National Geographic Endeavour . In the early light we sailed through the kilometer wide Ngarue pass into the vast lagoon of Fakarava Atoll which is a 60 km by 25 km rectangle and is the second largest atoll in Polynesia. A double rainbow greeted us as we anchored off the capitol village of Rotoava, located in the northeast corner of the atoll on one of the 7 major islands on the periphery of the coral encirclement. After clearing into French Polynesia (we have actually been traveling with special permission in French Polynesia for days now), we were free to go ashore and explore the village and the island at our leisure. One of the wonderful things about being in this place is that it is classified as a UNESCO nature reserve and all the flora and fauna of the land and the sea are protected. Ashore, we were greeted by Polynesian music and two beautiful young dancers as well as a host of venders with lovely shell and black pearl jewelry at very reasonable prices. Many of us then walked along the main street to visit one of the first churches in the Polynesian islands which was erected in 1874 and built out of local coral. It was exquisite inside with freshly painted blue walls and ceiling, ornate wooden carvings and mother of pearl alter decorations. We also had plenty of time to just wander the streets and visit with locals or take a nature walk with our naturalists. After a fine lunch aboard, we had the opportunity to return to the island for an afternoon of exploring on our own, taking a ride in the glass bottom boat, or snorkeling on a small coral reef inside the main lagoon. Some of the snorkelers has a special treat when two large Pacific manta rays swam lazily by as they floated just off the inner reef. Our scuba contingent had an opportunity to do a drift dive in the pass and explore the rich, protected reef on the outside of the atoll. They returned to the ship with great praises for the underwater beauty of this place. Sunset found us sailing again through Ngarue passage on our way back out into the rolling, sweet swells of the Pacific after a truly memorable day at Fakarava Atoll, French Polynesia, South Pacific.
4/22/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
At Sea to Ducie Island, South Pacific I loved this day because it was a day at sea, one of those wonderful life experiences all too often passed by and not even missed in our busy lives. A day at sea allows us to relax with others and actually have leisurely conversations, to sit in the library and just read, to take a nap or stare endlessly at the comings and goings of the limitless ocean. Because we are far, far from any land or source of sustenance there are not even seabirds to disturb the vastness and break us away from our musings and thoughts. Others have given words to time at sea and here are a few of them: "They that go down to the sea in ships that do business in great waters: These see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." -English Bible 161 Psalm 107 "Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; Whenever there is a damp drizzly November in my soul; Whenever I find myself pausing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up the rear of every funeral I meet; and especially when my hypos get such an upper hand of me that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street, and methodically knocking people's hats off--then I account it is high time to get to sea as soon as I can." -Herman Melville, Moby Dick "When a man ceases to want to run away to sea, he can be sure that he has finally left youth behind him." -Maurice Griffiths "There are three sorts of people; those who are alive, those who are dead, and those who are at sea." -Anacharsis, 6th c. B.C. "I find the sea-life an acquired taste, like that for tomatoes and olives." -Ralph Waldo Emerson "Sailors, with their built-in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world." -Nicholas Monsarrat "The wonder is always new that any sane man can be a sailor." -Ralph Waldo Emerson We aboard the National Geographic Endeavour wish you all smooth sailing, good dreams and the peace that comes with a day at sea.
4/24/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Henderson Island, Pitcairn Group As we approached Henderson Island in the calm golden sunshine of early morning, we knew today was going to be a great day. The decks were packed as National Geographic Endeavour made her way along the rugged coast of this Makatea island – an uplifted coral atoll, with high cliffs behind the beaches surrounding an impenetrable eroded-limestone interior. Looking aloft, we noticed an escort of frigate birds, gliding just above our heads. It is not surprising that they seemed interested in our vessel, as they do not see many. Only a few ships pass this incredibly remote and uninhabited island each year, and even fewer actually stop to explore the wonders that led to Henderson being designated a UNSESCO world heritage site. Arriving off the North coast of the island, a scout boat was sent ashore to assess the landing, which can be a challenge even on the calmest days. Those watching the surf crashing on the reef from the bridge were not too surprised when the announcement came that our plans to land were postponed. However, in true expedition style, plan B was put into effect and we set out to see what lay below the waves. As well as snorkeling and scuba diving, our new glass-bottom boat set off on her maiden voyage, allowing everyone a view of the reef through the gin-clear water. During lunch plans changed once again, as conditions moderated with the incoming tide, allowing those feeling adventurous the chance to make an afternoon landing. It was not a ride for the faint-hearted, as the Zodiacs rode the surf through white-water across the reef and to the beach. Once ashore though, it was well worth it. Strolls along the white-sand beach encountered all four of the island’s endemic land birds, the Henderson fruit dove, reed warbler, rail and lorikeet, as well as masked and brown boobies, frigate birds and red-tailed tropic birds. Back under the waves, the scuba-divers drifted along a beautiful reef slope at the northeast point of the island. It was an exciting dive, with many gray reef sharks coming to investigate us, as well as several white tip reef sharks. The highlight however, was a huge Napoleon Wrasse, the size of our grand piano, which cruised along the reef ahead of us before retiring for the day into his sleeping cave. We sailed from Henderson as the sun set, reflecting on what an incredible day this, the first landing of the first voyage of the inaugural South Pacific Season for the National Geographic Endeavour , had been. Snorkeling, glass-bottom boat tours, a thrilling Zodiac landing, birds galore and two scuba dives – not a bad start!
4/26/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
The simple phrase “South Pacific” conjures up images of white sand beaches back-dropped by swaying palm trees, with azure colored waves washing on the shore. For us, guests of the National Geographic Endeavour , these images have become our reality, and the further west we go, the more primal drums begin to play in our ears, and what we might have formally referred to as a hedonistic lifestyle, suddenly becomes quite appealing and more common place. We have dropped our long trousers for shorts, and our shirts are mostly brightly colored, printed with palm trees and tropical fish. Shoes are optional, and hours are spent idly lying by the pool or on deck, enjoying the seascapes and brilliant views. The last few days have been packed with activities, so today we have a day at sea, a chance to relax and collect our thoughts before we officially enter into the tropics, and a whole new gamut of island experiences are put towards us. No trip to the South Pacific would be complete without exploring the underwater realm. Coral reefs surround most of the islands, providing a thriving ecosystem for marine creatures, and whether one is riding in the glass bottom boat, snorkeling or Scuba diving, they will be astounded by the plethora of life found there. Your basic coral animal, the basis for the reefs, is dependant on small uni-cellular plants (zooxanthelle) for growth. This plant facilitates the growth of a calcium-carbonate skeleton, which provides the framework for the reef (along with help from some mollusks and echinoderms). Whilst we all admire the small and often brightly colored corals that lie on the surface of the reef, this is actually the least significant part, as the skeleton from the coral generations before form the real basis of the community. And why is it that, even in the clearest, and generally least nutrient rich waters in the world, are coral reefs able to house such an amazing amount of life? The answer is once again the zooxanthelle. They use the sun to produce energy rich organic compounds, and are a food source for some of the lower men on the food chain. Additionally, coral reefs provide many different habitats, from small quite pools, to fast moving water, to safe nooks and crannies. Biology aside, dropping into the water and exploring a coral reef is one of life’s little pleasures that far too few of us get to experience. You can investigate, pry (with your eyes), and become entranced while on a reef. Small fish dart to and fro within the reef, while larger ones patrol the water above; coral starts to take on shapes and forms, just like the clouds, the one here reminding me of the drippy sand castles I used to make at the beach as a kid. It never gets boring, as every new reef holds a new treasure to be found.
4/28/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
During the night, the National Geographic Endeavour found herself sailing through a seemingly continual barrage of 3-4 meter swells, the timing and period of her passage through them reminiscent of the rhythmic striking of a low-toned, march-to-war kettle drum. As she pushed through the forward side of successive swells, shockwaves rippled down her length with the concussive strength of close-quarter artillery explosions. The winds screamed and whistled through the ship’s rigging, and raised the sea to a boil. The Beaufort scale soared towards eight, and the rain fell in torrents. Capt. Lampe slowed the vessel as a countermeasure. The effect was positive and immediate, though by no means did it completely ameliorate the lash of the inclement circumstances. At some point during the tropical darkness the period between swells lengthened, and the pitching softened. The ship began to rock us gently like babes in a cradle. By early morning, the sky was a patchwork of benign blues and grays shot through with streaks of amber sunlight. The rain had dissipated, the seas had been quelled, and the wind reduced to an even-flowing, warm tropical breeze. At breakfast relief was writ large on the faces and in the facetious sighs of most of us. Not surprisingly healthy appetites filled the dining hall. By mid-morning the air had warmed, the clouds had thinned and parted, and the National Geographic Endeavour was sailing a northwesterly course over gently undulating, cobalt seas – clear, deep, and richly blue. Naturalist Larry Hobbs has spent many years studying some of the seas’ most alluring and mighty denizens – cetaceans. Using the updated audio-visual system of the National Geographic Endeavour’s first-class lecture lounge in his late-morning presentation, he illuminated the origins of whaling as an enterprise, recounted (often with humorous anecdotes) his personal exploits as a researcher during the early days of tagging and tracking, and concluded with a look at modern equipment and techniques which have helped deepen our understanding of these gentle giants. He cautioned, however, that much work still needs to be done, and that some of the most basic questions concerning whales and dolphins are, and may continue to be, some of the most difficult to satisfactorily answer. In closing, Larry talked about his research into sustainability and the proper place of humans in the ecosystem. Following lunch the Lindblad staff hosted a showing of Thor Heyerdhal’s 1951 Academy Award winning documentary “Kon-Tiki.” The movie chronicles Heyerdahl’s and his team’s ambitious reconstruction of a South American balsa log raft, which they sailed to Polynesia in 1947 in an attempt to add empirical heft to Heyerdahl’s claim that the peopling of Polynesia could have resulted from a South American-originated migration. Filmed in Super-8 black and white, it stands as a unique and singular work by one of the twentieth century’s most famous, committed, and controversial archaeologists. Expedition Leader Tom Ritchie rounded the day’s educational program with a presentation on Captain Cook’s first expedition aboard the bark Endeavour . Tom paid particular attention to the chronology of the expedition’s discoveries. It was the first of Cook’s three great voyages. A young Joseph Banks was commissioned as the expedition’s chief naturalist. His primary duty, aside from collecting and cataloguing new floral and faunal species, was to set up a station in Tahiti to view the transit of Venus, a rare astronomical event. The expedition was clearly a success, but came at the cost of numerous lives. A large contingent of Cook’s crew would succumb to disease in Batavia (present day Jakarta). As Tom rounded out his talk with a cursory discussion of Cook’s next two voyages the seas around us took on the sheen of mercury – calm, gently rolling, and cooled in color and tone by the waning light of a tropical day. By eventide the western horizon was stained shades of chartreuse, flamingo, and burnt orange. As the sun dropped even farther below the sea’s edge a crimson tide of light swept our day into night.
4/30/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Raroia Atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia Blue water, white sand and coconut trees bent under their heavy load of leaves and fruit. At a glance the trees could be well-tanned women working in a field far, far away, under a strong tropical sun with their gay green hats fluttering in the wind. We visited a small village, on a Sunday, very quiet, even for here, French Polynesia under a soft sky with puffy little clouds. This is no tourist stop, there are no souvenir stands, and no primal calypso beat, just island life, slow and much older than most of our world. On our way back to the National Geographic Endeavour , in our Zodiacs, the water sparkles and cool drops dance across warm skin like a delight and an invitation. From the Zodiac, the light green water is sand, brown and khaki is coral, dark blue is the deep ocean and the bright darting colors, greens, blues, yellow and reds, those would be fish, more garish than any native cloth. I bend over the side of the Zodiac for a better look and see myself, in the water, no, I see myself under the water with the coral and the fish. And that is about all it takes as most of us grab flippers and masks for snorkeling, while others prepare scuba gear. For the divers, we head for the outer reef where there is a bit of current, don’t fight it, just relax and watch the wonders drift by. Butterfly fish of many kinds, colors and patterns, gently pick at the coral, while the more powerful parrot fish bite and scrape, and outraged damsel fish frantically swim and dart, all in vain, to protect their vague gardens. Then a different feeling as a white-tipped reef shark undulates across the reef, watching, but trying to look uninterested, like a celebrity at an important party, a Mardi Gras really and here’s a picture of one of the dancers, a lion fish: frilly, pretty and very poisonous too. Look, but don’t touch and then it is gone as we swirl away so we are not late for the next party, a dinner on deck beneath the stars.
5/2/2006
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the National Geographic Endeavour in South Pacific
Makatea Island, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia Today we visited the island of Makatea, a raised coral atoll in the Tuamotus. Maketea, in Polynesian, means this kind of island and we have seen one more of these maketeas at Henderson Island early in our voyage. Charles Darwin, on his voyage through these waters on HMS Beagle, developed his theory of the formation of atolls as the end product of a process which begins with a volcanic island, like Easter Island or Pitcairn Island, emerging from the sea and, of course, there are thousands of these oceanic volcanoes in the Pacific. He envisioned that once the volcano becomes dormant a fringing reef develops all around the shore of the volcano. Then the volcano, no longer being pushed up by volcanic activity beneath it, begins to sink back down below sea level. But as long as it sinks slowly, the reef can grow upward all along its length. Eventually the fringing reef becomes a barrier reef and protects a lagoon with the remnants of the original volcanic island in the center as we saw at Mangareva. In Darwin’s final stage of development, the central island sinks beneath the waves and the barrier reef continues to grow upward forming an atoll as we have seen Raoia and Fakareva. He showed that large areas of the Pacific are characterized by a sinking seafloor and abundant atolls. Clearly at Maketea, and other makatea islands, another step has taken place, because here the entire atoll has been raised more than 200’ above sea level. Obviously the coral did not grow out of the sea and so the island had to have been pushed up carrying the atoll with it and forming the makatea. Thus, on this voyage we have seen the entire sequence which Darwin envisioned and even a final step which he did not—the makatea. And today we walked on the raised coral of the archtype, Makatea Island. No textbook, no photographic essay, nor any documentary film could match the experience which we have had of visiting, in person, all the stages, plus one, of Charles Darwin’s oceanic islands.
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