The Cycladean island of Sifnos is one of those rare and special places that seem to embody the essential nature of some beautiful ideal, in this case that of the quintessential Greek island rising from the blue Aegean. Steep cliffs of sparkling schist embrace quiet harbors, while tucked into the hills above are many small villages of brilliantly whitewashed buildings and tiny blue-domed churches. As is the case with the Church of the Seven Martyrs, which we visited this morning, these are often built on rocky promontories, accessible only by long steep staircases that climb the cliffs behind them. Bright bougainvillea, shady little cafés, friendly Greek shopkeepers and the cats basking in the sun everywhere you look make this lovely island exactly what travelers to Greece see in their imaginations when dreaming of the journey to come.