Tracy Arm, Southeast Alaska, 9/14/2024, National Geographic Sea Lion
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Lion
Alaska
A misty morning greeted us with three orcas hunting near the ship as we made our way into the Tracy Arm-Ford Terror Wilderness. Before lunch, we made it “across the bar” and into the fjord, where the sun came out just in time to get close to a waterfall at Hole in the Wall.
After lunch, the adventurous set out in kayaks and paddleboards to explore one of the many glacially carved inlets along the main fjord. The day was capped off with a Zodiac ride amongst the ice to view the South Sawyer Glacier, where we spotted numerous harbor seals and even a harbor porpoise.
Being lucky enough to have two homes—Australia and the U.S.A.—has given Tanish (who goes by Tani) a deep love for diversity among ecosystems and cultures and a desire to learn about them.
Today was filled with incredible experiences. SGang Gwaay is a strongly spiritual land full of important history and culture of the Haida people. The powerful story that unfolded on the island long ago is present on the shores and in the forest of SGang Gwaay. We were able to take a Zodiac cruise to view wildlife. Humpback whales blew spouts in the distance and bald eagles perched in the trees on the horizon. A highlight of our day was when the Haida watchmen led our group ashore to explain the mortuary poles and village. We are forever grateful to them for sharing this glimpse of their culture with us. It was a truly special day.
This morning, we sailed north out of British Columbia, Canada and entered Alaskan waters. We explored Misty Fjords National Monument, a wilderness area which is part of Tongass National Forest. We were surrounded by steep rock cliffs, snow-capped mountains, U-shaped valleys, and numerous waterfalls. It was simply breathtaking!
Today was the first day we arrived on the Pacific Coastal Islands of Haida Gwaii. We had a beautiful morning sailing into Skidegate. After an early breakfast, we disembarked to take buses north to the community of Masset. Christian White, an incredibly talented carver, showed us his totem pole carvings, it was the celebration of 20 years since one was erected. We got to tour his workshop where he has a canoe in progress. The second group visited the home of James Hart, an accomplished artist who shared some of his work, such as a raven rattle and his bronze shaman statue. The kindness of these men, to invite us into their homes and share their stories, was incredible. We returned to Christian White’s where a feast was prepared with venison stew, Caesar salad with herring eggs, black seaweed flakes, salmon, pickled beach asparagus, spruce tip and fireweed juice, and many more delicious local delicacies. Dances and songs were demonstrated and to finish it all up, there was a dance for the women, followed by a dance for the men. These visits are always special, and we felt honored to be able to visit and learn from the Haida.
