Deception Island: Whalers Bay, Pendulum Cove

We are awoken this morning from our slumbers at 6:30. However, within a short time, we are tucking into our breakfast as we make our approach to Deception Island.

Soon we are sailing through Neptune’s Bellows, the spectacular narrow entrance into the caldera within the island. Almost immediately off on our starboard side we catch sight of the remains of the old Norwegian whaling station, the British base and the old hangar which are tucked into the northern shore in this bay. Soon we are speeding our way in the Zodiacs to the cinder and ash beaches so characteristic here. We are greeted ashore by Steve who tells us more about some of the rich history of this area. We then head off to get more closely acquainted with what is left from a bygone era of whaling and research. Old tanks, boilers and wooden huts and water boats invite us to explore further.

By late morning we are sailing further into Port Foster on our way to Pendulum Cove where we hope to swim! En route we encounter loose shore ice and our ship breaks into this ice field and slowly makes her way north-west. It is an exciting sensation to go through ice and we are all on the bow and decks to get the closest possible look. Much as this was enjoyable for us, it also soon becomes apparent that the ice extends all the way into our bathing beach area. Swimming is no longer possible. A leopard seal is spotted on the edge of the ice and our Captain gently places the bows into the ice and we all get a great view of this beautiful mammal. But a few meters away on another iceberg we sight an Adelie penguin complete with a ring on its left flipper.

We have lunch in this area and then head off for Swimming Option II and so head back to Whaler's Bay. We are given the encouraging news that option II also means that the water temperatures may be colder. With great speed we are all taken ashore and there we find an ideal swimming pool: a few pathetic bits of steam and just a few meters from the shore a generous spattering of ice, including two largish bits. The next half hour can best be described as "Ooooooooh & Aaaaaaaah!" This in no way detracts from all the fun and laughter shared by all those ashore. To help the general air of joviality our Hotel Manager and Chief Barman invite us to enjoy the welcoming warmth from a hot chocolate laced with an appropriate tot. Throughout this whole time a large flock of Pintado petrels nonchantly swim just offshore of us.

After some sailing in and out of the ice in Port Foster we head once again into the direction of Neptune’s Bellows and once the narrow entrance channel has been ably negotiated we head into the Bransfield Strait on southerly course. The strait is not as calm as we would like and there are several casualties to a little dizziness. It has been an action packed day.