Deception Island, Charcot Bay & Lindblad Cove
Did we really have a large pod of killer whales around the ship late last night as we made our way across the Bransfield Strait heading for Deception Island or was that just a dream?
Early this morning low mist obscured the island until we were almost upon Neptune’s Bellows; the narrow entrance that provides access into the inner caldera which is named Port Foster. As National Geographic Explorer cautiously threaded her way through this restricted entrance into the protected waters within, the mist began to clear, revealing blue skies and the recently formed volcanic scenery of our surroundings. The first landing of the day, Telefon Bay provided the opportunity for most of us to walk up to lip of one of the recently erupted craters on the island. The cinder covered slope of this small volcano made for easy walking up to some magnificent vantage points where we were able to gaze with wonder at this remarkable landscape.
Our next landing just a couple of miles across the caldera was at Pendulum Cove. Here an unexpectedly high proportion of our expedition members opted to test the temperature of the hot springs that are reputedly to be found here. The waters just at the shore edge were indeed steaming but judging by the screams and other reactions of most of the brave plungers, the polar water beyond the edge was not particularly warm!
During the afternoon it was full steam ahead almost directly south to start exploring the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It was not long after lunch that the beauty of this part of the world was unveiled. High stratus clouds gave way to clear blue skies above the peninsula, revealing the stunning landscape of high, snow covered plateau stretching south as far as the eye could see. Vast glaciers tumbled down from the plateaus lofty heights to sea level far below. As we made the approach to Charcot Bay at the south end of the Trinity Peninsula three humpback whales were spotted ahead of the ship. These animals were obviously feeding and appeared to be oblivious to our arrival. They continued to feed on the rich concentration of krill that was massing in this area, offering us outstanding views of these massive, wondrous creatures.
Deep at the back of Charcot Bay is Lindblad Cove, a delightfully peaceful place, surrounded by ice cliffs formed at the interface of where glaciers reach the sea. This cove was still full of pans of sea ice and brash ice. Captain Oliver gave us a demonstration of how capable our ship is in such conditions as he gently cruised round the bay, slipping through the ice, like a knife through butter. Dark clouds on the horizon out to sea and shafts of low angled sun shine added a certain dramatic feel to the spectacular setting. On exiting the bay a large serpent-like leopard seal was seen on an ice flow. As we made our approach it was clearly unconcerned but would occasionally look up at us as we floated quietly by. Before we knew it another incredible day on the Antarctic Peninsula had come to an end.
