Today was a day of startles, all of them pleasant. Waking up to "Good morning! For those of you who would like to join us on the bow, we have blue whales," we were off for our last day of adventure for this voyage. This morning we jumped in the Zodiacs and were dropped off on Isla San Francisco. Trekking across this arid area I was surprised to see "dead" bushes with beautiful red flowers blooming on them. These drought-deciduous plants (Adam's tree) drop their leaves as an adaptation to conserve water in dry times. Yet, despite the parched earth, small flowers bloomed here and there, butterflies flit between them, and the scurrying of lizards could be heard. I took a step and stepped back as a side-blotched lizard darted across my path. Watching him closely (he almost perfectly blended in with the surrounding jojoba plant stems), I giggled as he started doing push-ups. This behavior is often associated with territorial assertions or courtship rituals (not unlike in humans!).

A short dip in the ocean gave us just enough time to observe tube anemones, lobeskin puffers, balloonfish, giant mats of algae, long gelatinous strings of snail egg masses, and stands of elegant coral (Pocillopora elegans). Then we were off to snorkel with the California sea lions at Los Islotes. Descending into the water, brilliant fish swirled around me: sergeant majors, juvenile and adult giant damselfish, wounded wrasses, and beaubrummels. So many yellows, blues, and greens. Fish careening, nibbling on coral, and chasing each other. Suddenly, peering under an overhanging rock, I reared back as a Panamic green moray came out to greet me. Looking down, I marveled at the beautiful coloration patterns on a bullseye electric ray (see photo). This lovely fish feeds at night and uses electric shock not only to stun small crustaceans and worms, but also to protect itself. A dark shape suddenly loomed next to me. I involuntarily flinched, and then my face crinkled in a smile so broad that my mask started to leak. A sea lion had "buzzed" me.

Exploring the island by Zodiac, we gazed up at the plethora of birds nesting and resting on the ledges carved in the soft volcanic rock. The many memories of this wonderful trip will always be some of my favorites.